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AMERICAN LIFE. 



A NARRATIVE 



OF 



TWO YEARS' CITY AND COUNTRY RESIDENCE 



UNITED STATES. 



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BOLTON PERCY: 

PRINTED FOR THE AUTHORESS. 

1843. 









LEEDS: 
FEINTED BY E\ I. BOEBUCK, GBACE STEEET. 



//&•£$ 



PREFACE. 



In submitting these few sheets to the public, 
the authoress wishes to be considered as presenting 
a faithful record of her observations, and of events 
as they occurred within the limits of her experience, 
during her continuance in the United States. 

Whenever she has felt herself called upon to 
give an opinion, she has endeavoured impartially 
to comply; and when, in delineating characters, 
she has been compelled to draw upon fiction for 
names, in order to avoid inflicting an injury by an 
unnecessary exposure; it may be concluded with 
certainty that the names alone are fictitious, and 
that the individuals represented are correctly de- 
picted in their proper colours. 

While employed in preparing this small volume 
for the press, that opinion, so frequently expressed 
by the Americans, has often occurred to her : viz. 
" That should a book be written on their country, 

a2 



IV. 



containing truth in its unalloyed simplicity, it 
would for ever lie on the shelves of the bookseller, 
as no encouragement would be given in England 
to any publication on such a subject, unless it were 
rendered palatable by libels and falsehoods." Al- 
though sufficiently convinced herself, of the fallacy 
of this notion, still it has had some influence in 
inducing as much caution, as if these pages were 
about to be submitted as a test to decide the fate 
of some such experiment. 

In the present edition the reader is presented 
with an additional chapter, devoted, almost exclu- 
sively, to the subject of Emigration. Indeed the 
authoress has endeavoured throughout, so to unite 
amusement with useful information, as to make 
her work desirable both as a book of utility to the 
emigrant, and as a volume of entertainment, to 
those who prefer viewing the other side the Atlantic 
through the safer medium of the press. How far 
she has succeeded, must be left to the judgement 
of a discerning public to determine. 

Raihcay Cottage, Bolton Percy. 



AMERICAN LIFE. 



CHAPTER I. 

THE VOYAGE. 



The day on which we sailed was clear and 
serene, and we gently drifted with the tide down 
Belfast Lough into the Channel. Assured that I 
should not be able to see land on the following 
morning, I kept my eyes fixed upon the hills in the 
distance till darkness rendered them no longer visi- 
ble. I never undertake a voyage or a journey with- 
out experiencing a vague feeling of melancholy — 
there is something so strangely depressing in the 
preliminaries of departure ; the packing of boxes — 
the arrangement of books, clothes, and papers. 
Indeed the whole valedictory ceremony is throughout 
a series of preparations, every way calculated to 
excite sensations of sadness. I seldom visit a place, 

a3 



even for a few weeks, without meeting with some 
agreeable associates, whose company I feel loath to 
relinquish. But these ephemeral disquietudes form 
but a shadowy representation of the emotions that 
agitated my frame, when I was leaving the shores 
of Europe, with the prospect of a long, and per- 
haps, a final separation. These unpleasant sensa- 
tions, however, were greatly alleviated, by consider- 
ing that the presence of those whom I hold dearer 
than all other earthly treasures, was with me in the 
vessel ; I mean my husband and my children. 

The next morning, we found ourselves going at 
a rapid rate under the influence of a gale, far too 
brisk for personal comfort. Our vessel was rather 
small, but she was, what is termed by sailors " a 
good sea-boat;" and for that reason alone, on 
account of her pitching and rolling, was very un- 
pleasant for passengers. The whole of the company 
in the cabin were distressingly affected with nausea, 
and so long as the gale lasted, we were quite in a 
passive and suffering condition. ■ 

This distressing concomitant of a long voyage 
affects individuals variously, according to their ages, 
constitutions, and previous habits of life. My 



personal sufferings which were very severe, were 
augmented by the care of an infant of six months. 
I had a servant on board, but she required as much 
attention from the steward as myself: and I now 
discovered to my great inconvenience, what I had 
frequently heard others affirm, — that very few fe- 
male servants, whatever be their representations, 
are capable of performing their duties during the 
first week of a voyage. 

The next day the gale increased to something 
like a storm, and for safety, I was recommended to 
retire to my birth. While lying there, helpless and 
almost in an inanimate state, a box which had 
escaped my notice containing a compass, fell from a 
small shelf just above my head, and struck me a 
violent blow with its sharp corner, upon my temples. 
From the weight of the box, it was supposed 
that, had my head reclined only one-fourth of an 
inch in another direction, the consequences must 
have been fatal : my infant also had a narrow 
escape, having been removed from my side only 
a few minutes before. I suffered much however, 
as it w r as; but I ought eternally to acknowledge, 
with lively feelings of gratitude, this merciful 



8 



interposition of an over-ruling Providence in my 
favour. 

During the continuance of this storm or gale, 
all the passengers on board without a single excep- 
tion were laid aside — the assistance of a female 
could not be obtained either for love or for money. 
There we lay, helpless in our berths, and I think, 
I never partook of food for upwards of two days ; 
nor was my case in this respect, by any means sin- 
gular. I have performed long voyages both before 
and since, and have always been similarly affected. 

I would earnestly recommend families going 
abroad, who are anxious to secure the advantage 
of a surgeon, to require a personal interview with 
the individual wht to act in that capacity ; par- 
ticularly if they sail mi a foreign port. Such a 
precaution would often prevent much disappoint- 
ment, as the person who is introduced as " the 
doctor," not unfrequently turns out to be some vul- 
gar fellow, redolent of rum, and dressed in shabby 
black ; who enjoys the privilege of a free passage, 
and commonly earns the hearty contempt of all who 
are doomed to endure his society. 

The cabin of a packet ship bound to a distant 



port, is a bazaar of character. Here are assembled 
individuals, the very antipodes of each other in 
religion, politics, employment, country, and lan- 
guage. Here, the gay and the grave, the religious 
and the profane, with their peculiar prejudices and 
partialities, meet upon one common plane of 
equality. Under no other circumstances can this 
take place. Boarding houses indeed, on the Con- 
tinent and in America, have some resemblance; 
but there, an opportunity is afforded for selection ; 
here, choice is impossible. The company, be its 
composition ever so heterogeneous, is confined 
within a circumscribed space from which there is 
no retreat ; and all are obliged to spend the whole 
of their time together in that part of the vessel 
which they have selected. 

Our cabin company however, was by no means 
numerous. Besides myself and my family, it con- 
sisted of the captain and his wife, both originally 
from Connecticut; a Mrs. Johnson, an English 
lady ; an Irish lady from Antrim ; an English man- 
ufacturer ; a young American merchant ; a young 
Irishman; and a youth of dubious origin, called 
James. 



10 



The captain and his lady were, in point of dis- 
position, the most unlovely specimen of Americans 
I ever met with, either before or since ; and were 
every way calculated to give us a most unfavourable 
opinion of the state of society in their own country. 
Ever since his first voyage to Europe, the captain 
had entertained a disrelish for the company of Eng- 
lishmen. This arose from two circumstances, that 
none but a person of his cast of mind would adduce 
as distinguishing marks of the English character. 
I remember, one of these grievances was, that some 
person on the quay at Liverpool had applied to him 
the unpalatable term of " transported Yankee," 
garnished with some accompaniments by no means 
complimentary. For this, and something else 
equally important, he seemed to consider himself 
justifiable in insulting every Englishman with whom 
he came in contact, and lost no opportunity of 
indulging himself in every unamiable species of 
retaliation that he found conveniently practicable. 
Morose, and remarkably ignorant, he was eternally 
smoking cigars ,• but fortunately for our comfort, 
possessed the negative virtue of sobriety. Out of 
his profession, he was nobody, but we had just 



11 



reason to believe that his nautical talents were of 
the highest order ; and to us, this was certainly a 
matter of the first importance. 

Our private cabins, in which were our berths, 
were so constructed, that every word might be dis- 
tinctly heard in the public cabin. I remember that, 
on the first day of our embarkation, while I was 
alone in mine, changing my dress, the cabin was 
at that time occupied by the captain and a few of 
his personal friends, who had accompanied him on 
the voyage, with a view of returning in the Pilot 
boat. Their conversation was about the passengers 
on board, all of whom, excepting myself, were on 
deck at that time : I then heard the captain affirm, 
after alluding to his English passengers, " that if an 
Englishman were to fall over board he would not 
throw out a rope to save him" I distinctly heard 
him make this assertion, and shall never forget the 
sensations it produced — I heard also his wife's 
amiable applaudissement of this fiend-like expres- 
sion ! This last did not surprise me, as it was in 
exact accordance with the judgement I had formed 
of her character, from the first glance of her physiog- 
nomy. By cautioning them for the future, to bf 



12 



more guarded in their private communications, I 
let them know I was in possession of their senti- 
ments ; and I thought proper to point out the 
way in which I obtained my information, in order 
to convince them that I was above the meanness of 

listening. 

The captain used to commence the day with 

doing the formidable among the sailors. Having 

discharged npon these poor fellows, all the steam 

of ill humour that had accumulated during the 

previous night, he would descend into the cabin 

and take breakfast. We had frequently remarked, 

that during this repast he invariably attempted to 

make some one of us miserable, by indulging in 

some insulting remarks, artfully delivered in the 

form of opinions ; so, in order to defeat his amiable 

intentions, we agreed to preserve a dead silence, or 

only to speak in the most laconic manner possible ; 

concluding that he could not long amuse himself 

with a monologue. His advent was agreed upon to 

be the signal for us to prepare to carry our designs 

into execution. There we sat — with nun like 

gravity, quaffing our coffee in silence, as toasts are 

drank to the memory of the departed ! 



13 



This negative species of defence had its desired 
effect. Annoyed by our taciturnity, which necessa- 
rily imposed a similar penance on himself, he would 
turn in despair to his wife. Here he was either 
entirely unsuccessful, or otherwise amused with an 
inceptive taste of matrimonial infelicity. 

This was the second month of their marriage. 
His wife was the daughter of a Connecticut farmer, 
she was about twenty-five years of age, and some- 
what diminutive in person. Her countenance on 
all occasions, preserved the rigidity of a statue, 
except when excited to dart a look of malevolence ; 
or when she endeavoured to assume an air of 
authority : on this latter occasion it presented the 
funniest appearance imaginable. Transplanted from 
the domestic employment of a small farm, to do the 
honours of the cabin table, she evidently felt her- 
self greatly exalted, and bore her elevation with 
the worst possible grace. Of a mean and suspicious 
cast of mind, and conscious of being alike destitute 
of outward attractions and internal excellencies, 
she was in consequence, jealous in the extreme, 
and always interpreted any little attention paid to 
another, in her presence, as a direct insult offered 

B 



14 



to herself. Her conduct to the poor black steward 
was marked with haughtiness and cruelty ; and 
if it be true what I have often heard affirmed — 
that vulgar pride is found united with meanness 
and tyranny; certainly in this instance, the unity 
of this triune cluster of graces is strictly pre- 
served. 

The English lady, Mr. Johnson, was an amia- 
ble personage. She was, in my judgement, as 
correct a personification of virtue as any with whom 
I have ever met. Devout without superstition — 
cheerful without levity — refined without affectation 
— and well informed, without literary pretension, 
she might pass for a model. 

The Antrim lady was a very good natured 
creature. She stood on equal ground with the 
captain's wife in point of educational advantages, 
or rather disadvantages; but was her opposite in 
every thing else. She was remarkably agreeable, 
and possessed that truly Christian qualification I so 
much admire — an earnest desire to make every 
one happy. Her foibles were the result of her 
unfortunately limited education. But I found in 
her case, as in some others, that a redundant flow 



15 



of animal spirits is no certain evidence of weak 
intellects or shallow feelings. 

The young Irishman was a warm hearted being. 
His constant amusement was humming tunes and 
writing poetry. For the latter he had an uncon- 
querable passion. He expressed himself as being 
confidently assured, that he possessed the true 
spirit of poetry ; and that, at some time not far 
distant, he should distinguish himself above the 
herd of mankind. He was greatly encouraged to 
devote his time to the muses, by having heard it 
repeatedly said in his family, that his great grand- 
father was a poet — that is, that he had written 
something that had pleased somebody. From this, 
it appears, that the poor young man, supposing 
poetry to be like the gout, hereditary, and like that 
distemper, would sleep in the blood for generations, 
and descending from father to son, would break out 
after the lapse of a century — concluded hypotheti- 
cally, that the fire of poetry would some day blaze 
out from him, and astonish the world. 

Poets, like other authors, and some say author- 
esses, are reported as never being satisfied without 

large draughts of unqualified praise. From his 

b2 



1G 



teasing the gentlemen with his verses, it seems he 
possessed this unfortunate propension ; and I must 
admit, that if his poetry deserved as much praise as 
it produced merriment, it was excellent ! 

The American merchant was a gentleman of a 
quiet disposition, and rather reserved. Although 
both countrymen, the captain and he appeared most 
cordially to detest each other. 

There was a youth on board, about twenty years 
of age, whom the captain called " James," and 
who described himself as an Englishman. He was 
ostensibly under the protection of the captain, who 
appeared to be somewhat ashamed of his charge. 
He surpassed all, of whom I have ever heard or 
read, in the vicious practice of telling falsehoods. 
For the first few days he led us all into a labyrinth 
of misunderstandings. His tales were so perplex- 
ingly mischievous, and their fallacy at the same time 
so easy of detection, that it was truly astonishing for 
what purpose he gave them utterance. The gentle- 
men appeared determined to convince him by forci- 
ble arguments, that such conduct would not be tol- 
erated with impunity. On a particular occasion, his 
presence of mind happily suggested absence of body, 



17 



as the best means to avoid the result of a discovery 
likely to prove unpleasant to his feelings : and, as 
fear drove him to the forward part of the vessel, 
shame kept him there — a place, no doubt far better 
suited to his taste than the one he had evacuated. 
How the captain would account for this to his 
friends, I cannot imagine ; but they must know the 
propensity of this James too well to believe his 
assertions, even if called forth by a dispute respect- 
ing the certainty of his own existence ! He said he 
was an Englishman, and that we considered con- 
clusive evidence that he was not. 

After we had been a few hours under weigh, 
one of the crew jumped over board, under the 
influence of intoxication; a boat was immediately 
lowered, and the poor foolish fellow was rescued 
from a watery grave. The passengers, from a 
mistaken notion of good nature, had furnished this 
man with what might have proved his destruction. 
On this occasion, the captain exerted his preroga- 
tive in a judicious manner, by compelling all on 
board to surrender their stores of spirits, &c. and 
not a single glass was allowed to either officers 
or men during the whole of the voyage. This 

b3 



18 



caused some murmuring, particularly among the 
passengers, but they soon became reconciled to 
what was unavoidable; and although several de- 
clared they should perish if deprived of their daily 
drops, yet incredible as it may appear, there was 
not a single death registered on the ship's books 
from such a cause ! 

The steerage of the vessel was occupied by up- 
wards of a hundred passengers, almost the whole 
of whom were Irish : they behaved exceedingly 
well. Perhaps the absence of the circulating me- 
dium of friendship (whiskey) was the principal 
cause of their good conduct. The following cir- 
cumstance, which fell under my immediate notice, I 
confess, inclines me to adopt this opinion. Shortly 
after we arrived at New York, a vessel, freighted 
in a similar manner to this in which we were, 
discharged its living cargo on the north side of 
the city. The passengers leaped joyfully on shore, 
vociferating cheers for the Land of Liberty, and 
rushed into the neighbouring spirit stores to regale 
themselves. The liquor they imbibed so effectually 
blinded their minds to all distinction of meum and 
tuinn, that they proceeded to select shillaleighs 



19 



from a cargo of hickory wood just landed, that 
was sawn into lengths of four feet, and of various 
degrees of thickness. With these they furiously 
assailed each other — the police were ordered out — 
and nearly all of them were allowed, for the space 
of a month (I think,) to sing praises to the " land 
of liberty" within the walls of a prison. Disorderly 
characters are much more severely punished in the 
United States than here. With us, misconduct, 
proceeding from intoxication, is too frequently 
treated as a joke — there, it is no joke. 

After the distressing nausea had ceased to tor- 
ment us, we found some few enjoyments of which 
we had entertained no previous expectation. Those 
who have not passed a moon-light evening at sea, 
are unacquainted with one of the principal pleasures 
of life. The solemn, yet placid moaning of the 
ocean — the rich variety of light and shade, pro- 
duced by the falling of the moon-beams on the 
waves — the boundless expanse that lies open to the 
view — the peaceful grandeur that reigns, broken 
only by sounds that harmonize with the majesty of 
the scene — all unite to present an association of the 
peaceful, the splendid, and the sublime, of which 
the pencil can convey no adequate idea. 



20 



With the converse of a friend, on these delight- 
ful evenings, when the vessel was darting over the 
mighty waters with the celerity of a swallow, I 
seemed to enjoy more than fabled Elysian pleasures. 
Or when all was still, and the ship calmly reposing 
on the bosom of the ocean, I could send my 
thoughts eastward, over the surrounding world of 
waters, and indulge in a rapturous retrospect. At 
these seasons, the home of my youthful days appear- 
ed invested with its most captivating attractions. 
The village green — the grove, with the distant 
mill — the surrounding landscape — 

And every stump, — familiar to my sight 
Recalled some fond idea of delight. 

These scenes of my childhood, as if abounding 
with the delights of Paradise, would excite emotions 
exquisitely sublime, yet slightly tinctured with a 
pleasing sadness. Wherever, through this wide 
world, my wandering feet may turn; my country, 
and particularly the place of my nativity, will never 
cease to attract my affections with a cord — fine, 
indeed, and tensile as the slightest gossamer, yet 
strong as the stoutest cable. 



21 



This may be called an ebullition of enthusiasm, 
the sole effect of feminine weakness — but the great- 
est characters on earth have confessed the power of 
early associations. Seneca, banished to Corsica, 
found his philosophy fail in a vain attempt to recon- 
cile him to the island ; and pathetically entreats 
the soil of the land of his banishment, to lie lightly 
on the ashes of the living. To Seneca, Corsica 
was a grave. But on the other hand, Napoleon, to 
whom the same island was a cradle, declared when 
in exile, that if once more permitted to see the 
place of his nativity, he should embrace the ground 
with rapture ; and even if led blindfold, he could 
discover it by the very smell. 

Our time hung heavily on our hands, during 
the day. The continual motion of the vessel pro- 
hibited us from doing exactly what we desired ; but 
I fear, want of inclination prevented some of us 
from employing ourselves, where useful employ- 
ment was really practicable. During these hours 
of idleness, the gentlemen amused themselves with 
shooting at stormy petrels ; birds in some degree 
resembling the martins, and whose residence is 
confined to the main ocean : it is said they are 



22 



never to be seen within two hundred miles of land. 
Shoot at them, they did indeed, about twenty times 
a day ; but although the birds were seen in a state 
of quiescence, riding upon the summit of the huge 
waves, frequently within a few yards of the gun's 
muzzle — not one was ever shot. From observation, 
I became so confident that they would hit some- 
thing, that I removed my children from the deck 
for safety. 

Some say that these birds, like the enemies of 
the Puritans, possess a charm against cold lead. 
This attribute is perhaps, as true as that of their 
eternal residence on the waves of the ocean ; and is 
not entirely destitute of utility, if it serve to excuse 
the inexpertness of nautical sportsmen. 

We had been perplexed for many days with 
light winds, and were driven far northward. After 
we had been about twenty days under sail, and had 
reached a very high latitude, the air, influenced 
by the neighbouring ice-bergs, became very cold. 
While in this position, one star-light night, about 
seven o'clock," we were surprised by the appearance 
of a phenomenon in the heavens, which we, at 
first conceived to be an aurora borealis ; but it 



23 



did not correspond, in every particular, with the 
descriptions we have read and heard of the aurora. 
I shall here attempt to describe it. 

Let the reader imagine the arc of a circle, about 
90° in length, with its concave side turned due 
north. From its convex side, divergent streams of 
light were seen about 30° in length, equal in all 
points, and distinctly shewing in brilliant display, 
all the colours of the rainbow. Without shooting 
or darting, they remained in all their splendour for 
a full hour. After that period, they gradually began 
to grow dim, but preserved their position till they 
became no longer visible : this was about two hours 
from their first appearance. 

The number of porpoises that played around 
the ship, seemed to enjoy as much amusement as 
they imparted. The rapidity with which these 
un wieldly creatures move, is very surprising. From 
a rough calculation, made by a gentleman on board, 
taking the rate of the vessel for his datum, their 
speed was about thirty miles per hour. We saw 
some flying fish ; they are elegant little things, and 
when seen in a certain position, resemble the pic- 
torial representation of miniature angels. 



24 



A few sharks were seen darting through the 
water. They abound on the American coast, and 
render sea bathing very dangerous. Their usual 
practice is, to scour the shore with the incoming 
tide, in search of food ; and for that reason, it is 
safe to bathe only when the tide is receding. From 
ignorance of this circumstance, accidents have 
occurred to Europeans, which in some instances, 
have been attended with fatal consequences. 

Naturalists have remarked that the shark turns 
on its side when in the act of seizing its prey ; and 
that while he is changing his position, the object of 
his attack has time to escape. This cannot have 
been recorded from actual observation. The celer- 
ity with which the voracious creature cuts through 
the water, surpasses comprehension — the human 
eye can scarcely follow him. I have had frequent 
opportunities of observing him when seizing his 
prey or a bait, and witnessed experiments made in 
clear water for the purpose of attesting the truth 
of the above assertion ; and all that 1 could dis- 
cover, amounts to a possibility that he may perhaps, 
slightly swerve his body ; — but, even if so, there is 
scarcely time given for an intent observer to notice 



25 



the motion ; and to escape when once within his 
reach, is absolutely impracticable. 

In descending from the north we crossed the 
banks of Newfoundland. These banks are covered 
with water, varying in depth from twenty to sixty 
fathoms. Here, innumerable quantities of fish are 
nourished, by vegetable substances washed down 
in the Gulf Stream ; and fishing smacks, from all 
parts of Europe and America, assemble here at 
certain seasons, to take in their cargoes. Were the 
whole world supplied with fish from this quarter, it 
is supposed no perceptible diminution would occur. 
The eagerness of the fish in taking a bait in salt 
water is really astonishing ; and forms a striking 
contrast to the caution evinced, under similar cir- 
cumstances, by the fresh water species. 

A fog prevailed during our passage across the 
banks. This, I understood, is by no means an 
unusual occurrence. We found the water here to 
preserve a uniformity of appearance with that on 
soundings: in the main ocean it is many shades 
darker in colour. 

Considering the immense traffic between Europe 
and the New World, I was surprised at the paucity 

c 



26 



of vessels that crossed the field of our view ; during 
the whole passage, we only saw three ! We spoke 
with two of these ; one was a whaler, in search of 
those monsters of the deep, of which we had seen 
no less than nine. 

After we had cleared the banks, we were 
favoured with an auspicious gale that carried us 
along at a rapid rate, till we were very near land ; 
but, before we had the happiness to enjoy the sight 
of that desired object, we were surrounded by 
another dense fog. We continued, however, to 
scud along for several hours, till the captain judged 
it prudent to take in sail; observing, that according 
to his reckoning, we must be close upon land ; and, 
that if the fog would permit him to discover a 
particular floating light, he would take in the vessel 
the same night without the assistance of a pilot. 
This, however, was not the case. 

This evening, we of the cabin missed several 
things, on arranging our luggage for landing. To 
those whom such advice will benefit, I would say 
" Take from your main store, as few valuables as 
possible, that are conveniently portable ; and fur- 
nish yourselves with common articles, if you wish 



27 



to keep your superior ones." The chief loss of my 
party was in books, spoons, and children's forks. 
I had provided the two latter articles expressly for 
the occasion, in anticipation of what might occur ; 
and those who "borrowed" them, no doubt have 
discovered ere this, that "it is not all gold that 
glitters" — nor yet silver. 

The next morning's sun shone bright to every 
eye on board. — The cry of " Land off the larboard 
bow" was hailed with rapturous cheers — there 
indeed it was, plain enough, and only about half 
a league from the vessel — and there was the floating 
light, dimly flickering from the head of an old hulk, 
moored at a similar distance on the starboard. 
When we considered the thousands of miles we had 
sailed — the extremes of latitude to which we were 
driven (from 40° to 65°) — the impracticability of 
taking an observation for the two preceding days 
on account of the weather — we were surprised at 
the judgement of the captain, who could, under such 
disadvantages, bring a vessel through a fog within a 
few cables' length of land, and declare her position ! 

We sailed past Sandy Hook to the usual ren- 
dezvous of all vessels bound to the city of New 

c2 



28 



York — the quarantine ground. This place is situa- 
ted about seven miles from the city ; it is a narrow 
channel, formed by the near approximation of 
Staten Island and Long Island. 

Close by the water's edge on Staten Island, 
stands an hospital, for the reception of invalids from 
all quarters of the world. It is chiefly supported 
by a capitation tax of two dollars, which is de- 
manded from every foreigner before he lands ; and 
in case of default, he is taken to prison ! But more 
of this hereafter. We were boarded and examined 
by a surgeon, who found all to be in health, except 
one old woman, who, to our consternation, was 
discovered in the steerage dangerously ill. She 
was placed in a boat, and rowed to the shore with 
all expedition, and died just as she entered the 
hospital. Had the poor old creature departed ten 
minutes sooner, we should have been quarantined, I 
understand for twenty days. After remaining here 
for nearly twelve hours, we weighed anchor and 
floated with the tide to the city. 



29 



CHAPTER II. 

DESCRIPTION OF NEW YORK.— CHURCHES.— 
THEATRES. — AUCTIONS.— UNCLE SAM. 

The bay of New York is a fine piece of water, 
studded with islands, and is usually first viewed 
with sensations of agreeable surprise. From its 
designation, I expected to find it presenting a semi- 
circular form, like most other bays ; but to the eye 
of an individual entering from the Atlantic, it 
assumes the appearance of a fine circular lake, 
about eight miles in diameter ; and, I think, that 
term would describe it more correctly than the 
one adopted. In strict propriety, either is a mis- 
nomer — it is an estuary. This magnificent sheet 
of water, by whatever name it may be known, is 
bounded on the north by Manhatten Island, on 
the southern extremity of which stands the city 
of New York. 

It was just before sun set, on a delightful 
evening in the month of October, allowed to be, 
by far the pleasantest period of a transatlantic year, 

c3 



30 



when we approached this commercial metropolis of 
the New World. Here the atmosphere like that 
of Italy, is extremely clear ; it imparts a charming 
lustre to the surrounding landscape, and clothes 
the scenery with an appearance of inconceivable 
brilliancy. Under these advantages the prospect 
was most delightful. We seemed as if gently 
gliding over a sea of fluid gold. In the distance, 
guarded by unnumbered vessels stood the city, oc- 
cupying a dignified station on the banks, and just 
at the point of confluence of two of the finest rivers 
in the world. These, the magnificent Hudson and 
the Eastern River, were seen pouring their tributary 
floods of liquid light, into the bosom of this splen- 
did estuary. On the right, were the heights of 
Long Island — far off, on the left, was Jersey City, 
stationed on the coast to which it gives its name. 
The whole prospect, enriched by a pleasing variety 
of wood and water, and viewed through the bright 
medium of this clear atmosphere, rendered still 
more brilliant bv the setting sun, combined to form 
a scene most enchantingly beautiful — too grand, 
indeed, for the most sanguine imagination to 
conceive. 



31 



My husband, with three of the other gentlemen, 
impatient at being detained at the quarantine 
ground, had embraced the opportunity offered by 
a passing steamer, of proceeding to the city before 
us ; and, having made arrangements for our accom- 
modation, was waiting to receive us. Those will 
sympathize with my feelings, on first setting foot 
on dry land, who, like myself, have endured five 
weeks' confinement in a ship ; which is indeed, 
nothing more than a floating prison, differing only 
from a stationary one, in the probable event of a 
general jail delivery by drowning. 

Arrived at length and safely debarked, we soon 
found ourselves installed as inmates of a genteel 
boarding-house, at the upper end of Beekman- 
street, near the City Hall. On entering, I was a 
little surprised at the appearance of the rooms — 
being much better furnished, and presenting alto- 
gether a nobler air than I expected to find assumed 
by a mere boarding-house, in this far-away country. 
After we had forwarded our letters and refreshed 
ourselves, we retired to a comfortable bed room on 
dry land ; rendered doubly grateful, after the tem- 
pestuous tossings of the ocean, and the fatigue pro- 
duced by this day of excitement. 



32 



The next morning we all arose early, and with 
glowing expectations, set forward] to perambulate 
the city. What strange sensations affect the mind 
of a stranger, on first entering a foreign city — what 
an air of novelty every thing appears to wear that 
the eye can rest upon ! Every trifle attracts atten- 
tion, and our desires for information appear as if 
they could never be satisfied. 

This city of New York certainly is a noble 
place ; it is divided into fourteen wards, and con- 
tains about three hundred thousand inhabitants. 
The houses are chiefly of red brick, and altogether 
its internal appearance fully justified the impres- 
sions produced by the outline of the previous night. 

Broadway, as the principal street is called, is 
the leading feature, in point of position and fashion- 
able attraction ; it runs in a direct line, from south 
to north, through the heart of the city ; and is, I 
believe, about five miles and a half in length : its 
southern extremity communicates with a fine pro- 
menade, leading to the south battery. This fort 
is situated at the southern extremity of the city, 
just at the termination of Manhatten Island, and 
at the point of confluence of the East and Hudson 



33 



Rivers. Its position, as a place of pleasurable re- 
sort, is delightful ; and from its commanding situa- 
tion, it must, when required, form an excellent post 
of defence. Long may it continue to be the resort 
of the votaries of pleasure, rather than the theatre 
of military glory. 

Broadway is the fashionable lounge for all the 
black and white belles and beaux of the city ; its 
commodious and extensive pave, completely covered 
with neat awnings, forms as agreeable a promenade, 
as is to be found, perhaps, in any city in the 
world. Many a transatlantic poet has endeavoured 
to immortalize this noble walk, and its glittering 
pedestrians ; but no one has succeeded in pre- 
vailing upon Pegassus to use the trottoir of 
Broadway. 

Nearly parallel with Broadway, are several 
other streets, and these again are connected with 
others, which intersect them at right angles. 
The relative position of the streets in the old, 
or southern part of the city, is somewhat con- 
fused ; but nothing can exceed the regularity with 
which the upper past is disposed, as a reference 
to the plan will sufficiently testify. Straightness 



34 



is here the prevailing feature, which, although it 
preserves the uniformity entire, yet never displays 
street architecture so advantageously as the fine 
sweeping curve. 

About a mile up Broadway, is the Park. This 
is a small enclosure of a few acres, encircled with 
an iron railing, divided into walks, planted with 
trees, furnished with seats, and made, every way 
as agreeable as it is possible to make a small oasis 
of verdure, situated in the centre of a populous 
city. At the upper end of the Park, stands the 
pride of New York — the City Hall. It is a fine 
marble structure certainly, but it did not strike me 
as possessing that magnificent appearance that I 
expected, from a building composed entirely of 
marble. But tastes differ. One of our company 
on this occasion, related an anecdote of an Irish 
gentleman, whom he had conducted round the city. 
After surveying several of the public buildings and 
many streets presenting architectural attractions, 
all of which the Irishman had dismissed in succes- 
sion with this remark, " Very good indeed, but not 
like Dublin," — he was suddenly brought within full 
view of the City Hall. The Hibernian appeared 



35 



struck with astonishment, and unguardedly ex- 
claimed, " But was this built here ?" 

There are several buildings of white marble in 
various parts of the city ; some also of brick, hand- 
somely faced with Jersey free-stone, which present 
a very genteel and substantial appearance. The air 
of newness pervading the whole city, never fails 
to arrest the attention of the stranger and excite 
admiration. Indeed, the whole of the buildings 
present so clean an exterior, that they seem as if 
just finished. This is accounted for by the absence 
of coal smoke, that impartial enemy to architectural 
beauty, in the " old country," as they here term 
England. 

Coal is here only burned by the opulent, and 
although fashion has declared in favour of its use, 
yet wood is the chief, and indeed, almost the 
only fuel consumed here; it is certainly much 
healthier and cleaner, than its sable substitute, but 
the matter of dollars and cents has its share of 
influence. 

The number of superb houses is very great : 
though it must be confessed that, like the streets, 
their uniformity greatly detracts from the effect they 



36 



would produce under other circumstances. They 
appear all to be built upon one plan ; the chief 
feature of which is, that the dining and drawing 
rooms are situated on the lower floor, and so 
arranged, as by throwing open a large pair of fold- 
ing doors, to form one splendid apartment. Their 
furniture is magnificent in the extreme. In this, 
as well as all other household embellishments, the 
natives pride themselves ; and certainly they suc- 
ceed to admiration in their attempts to produce a 
brilliant effect with slender materials. 

The buildings for the celebration of public 
worship, are generally denominated " churches ;" 
I conceive this uniformity of designation is caused 
by the absence of an established religion. St. Paul's, 
in Broadway, a Protestant episcopal church, is the 
principal ecclesiastical edifice in the city. It is a 
plain modern structure composed of free-stone, with 
a steeple of the same material ; the east end is 
ornamented by a colonnade, supporting a pediment 
enriched with a statue of St. Paul. The whole 
is well disposed, and produces an agreeable effect ; 
but the interior is merely plain and neat, without 
any pretension whatever to splendour. This church 



37 



has the advantage of a burial ground, a convenience 
somewhat questionable, and by no means general 
throughout the city. 

All the other churches are composed of either 
brick or red granite, and appear to be erected with- 
out any design whatever to add to the beauty of 
the city. There are neither domes nor towers; 
the steeples are by no means lofty, and from the 
elevation of the surrounding dwellings, they seem 
lower than they are in reality. Each of these 
erections shelters one bell, or at most two; and 
when all these are in united operation on a Sunday 
morning, the universal clanking may be conceived 
to be any thing but harmonious. 

Almost every sect and denomination of religion 
has its temple and its supporters; but it must be 
conceded, that the most respectable part of the 
citizens attend the Protestant episcopal churches; 
and the proportion in this city, is acknowledged 
to correspond with that of the larger towns in 
England. 

There are two principal theatres, the Park and 
the Bowery ; besides a number of minor ones, con- 
tinually springing up and declining. The blacks, 

D 



38 



who are never behind in rivalling their superiors, 
contrive to keep open one, and sometimes two 
theatres; where the popular characters of Lady 
Macbeth, Juliet, the fair Desdemona, and others, 
are all some way sustained by the sable sisterhood. 
A lively inmate of our boarding-house, amused us 
one morning at breakfast, with an account of his 
last night's entertainment at the black theatre, 
where a sable "Richard" was the point of attrac- 
tion. In order to please his audience, the crooked- 
backed monarch politely accommodated his language 
to the meridian of the place : whenever the word 
"York" occurred, he invariably altered the text, 
and called ft "New York!" — the "house of New 
York," &c. In this instance, the ladies were per- 
sonated by negresses ! 

Rents are here much higher than in London. 
On investigation, I suppose it would be found that 
the value of building ground in the lower part of 
this city, is exceeded by no area of equal dimensions 
in England — perhaps not in the world. The whole 
of the mercantile business is transacted in that part 
of the city, which lies below the Park. On in- 
specting the plan, the reader will perceive that the 



39 



only direction in which land can be obtained, is 
upwards, that is to the north; and, as this is allowed 
by men of business, to be out of the market, the 
merchant must either have his offices below the City 
Hall, or be altogether excluded. The value of 
land in this section being exorbitantly increased by 
competition, and the desire of all who have business 
to transact to be as near the market as possible, 
joined to the scarcity of room, combine to raise the 
price of land to an extravagant height in every part 
of the city. 

It is considered probable, that New York will at 
some future period, cover the whole of Manhatten 
Island. The village of Brooklyn, on the opposite 
coast of Long Island, and Jersey City, on the 
western bank of the Hudson, are also becoming 
very populous from their proximity to this grand 
market of the Union. A well regulated communica- 
tion by steam is kept up with these two outports of 
commerce; a boat starts for the former every three 
minutes, and for the latter, every ten minutes during 
the day. 

New York, is, beyond dispute, the first commer- 
cial city in the New World, and receives into its 

d2' 



40 



ports, vessels laden with the produce and manufac- 
tures of every quarter of the globe. But the retail 
department of trade is here conducted in a slovenly 
and most irregular manner; so much so that it is 
advisable for the buyer to be acquainted with the 
value of the article he intends to purchase, before 
he closes his bargain ; or he will run the risk of 
paying a penalty proportionable to his ignorance. 

Auction sales are here numerous beyond con- 
ception. Hence that part of the inhabitants having 
family establishments, and other extensive consumers, 
supply themselves from these, as frequently as pos- 
sible. These sales are effected in the lower part of 
the city; and a red banner displayed, serves as an 
insigne of an auction sale in this city, as a spear 
answered the same purpose in ancient Rome. 

It is true, that goods sold in this manner, are 
disposed of in very large quantities, as sales on this 
principle are expected to be frequented only by 
shop-keepers; but this difficulty is frequently obvia- 
ted, by a few families uniting and entering into a 
reciprocal engagement, to make purchases as oppor- 
tunities occur, of certain articles agreed upon by the 
compact. The high prices demanded in the shops, 



41 



almost compel the public to resort to this expedient 
in self defence. 

Some few however, make very odd kind of 
bargains at these sales. I remember one of our 
friends, a young gentleman, purchasing at an auction 
three hundred fans! This reminded me of Moses, 
in the "Vicar of Wakefield," and the gross of green 
spectacles : but simplicity is far from being fashion- 
able in this part of the world, and poor Moses would 
have stood no better chance here, than in the hands 
of Ephraim Jenkinson. 

There are, nevertheless, a vast number of good 
shops, and without doubt many are substantial and 
highly respectable ; but still, I never could heartily 
admire their system of transacting business; it 
required an Englishwoman to be so provokingly 
cautious and suspicious, if she wished to prevent the 
Yankees from being "too smart" for her. A term 
they use triumphantly on every fresh display of low 
trickery. 

Perhaps there are not, proportionably, a greater 
number of sharpers here than in London ; but there 
is certainly a marked difference in the treatment they 
receive. The smile of approbation bestowed upon a 

d3 



42 



clever villain, while relating his witty rogueries is 
shockingly misplaced ; and in my opinion, evinces a 
species of moral cowardice. A severe castigation 
would serve the interests of society much more effec- 
tually. Indeed, it were better to lead the life of an 
anchoret at once, than to associate with such charac- 
ters as I have seen admitted into the company of 
merchants, judges, and professional men. But, alas! 
the convenient excuse of " business purposes," too 
often serves as a mantle to cover, if it cannot justify, 
a multitude of sins. 

To my great surprise, on the other hand, I 
found the crime of smuggling held in utter abhor- 
rence. I rejoice at this, and from all I observed, 
I think it would be exceedingly difficult to find an 
American that could be prevailed upon to engage 
in a smuggling transaction of ever so trivial a 
nature. To cheat " Uncle Sam," as they term their 
government, is with them, a crime paramount! 
And they never fail to treat those foreigners with 
ineffable contempt, who are so perfidious as to 
defraud their own governments. I have heard in- 
stances of some of our British sharp fellows being 
sadly taken by surprise, through ignorance of this 
peculiarity of the national character. 



43 



Without hesitation, I allow that every species 
of villany ought to meet with the unmitigated 
condemnation of all just men. The question then 
naturally arises: How is it that those who regard 
roguery with such indifference, when practised on 
private individuals — nay, smile with approbation, 
if the transaction be associated with any thing witty 
— should single out the vice of smuggling, as the 
only one that deserves exclusive reprobation? I 
leave the question open ; but the general opinion is, 
that as this crime is regarded by far too many on 
this side the Atlantic, as a venial offence, it is 
placed on the criminal code of " Uncle Sam," 
through a pure love of opposition. 

This appellation, " Uncle Sam," is willingly 
acknowledged as the national soubriquet of the 
u free-born citizens of the United States," while 
on the other hand, the terms, " Brother Jonathan" 
and " Yankee," are considered highly offensive. 
As the origin of this favoured term is not generally 
known in England, I beg leave to insert a verbatim 
copy from an American newspaper, of the baptism 
of this independent personage, together with a 
description of his sponsors. 



44 



" Immediately after the declaration of the last war 
with England, Elbert Anderson, Esq. of this city, then 
a contractor, visited Troy, on the Hudson, where was 
concentrated, and where he purchased a large quantity 
of provisions — beef, pork, &c. The inspectors of these 
articles at that place were Messrs. Ebenezer and Samuel 
Wilson. The latter gentleman (invariably known as 
" Uncle Sam') generally superintended in person a large 
number of workmen, who, on this occasion, were em- 
ployed in overhauling the provisions purchased by the 
contractor for the army. The casks were marked E. A. 
— U. S. This work fell to the lot of a facetious fellow 
in the employ of the Messrs. Wilsons, who, on being 
asked by some of his fellow workmen the meaning of 
the mark (for the letters U. S. for United States were 
almost then entirely new to them,) said, "he did not 
know, unless it meant Elbert Anderson, and Uncle Sam" 
— alluding exclusively, then, to the said " Uncle Sam" 
Wilson. The joke took among the workmen, and pas- 
sed currently; and " Uncle Sam" himself being present, 
was occasionally rallied by them on the increasing extent 
of his possessions. Many of these workmen being of 
a character denominated " food for powder," were found 
shortly after following the recruiting drum, and pushing 
toward the frontier lines, for the double purpose of 
meeting the enemy, and of eating the provisions they 
had lately laboured to put in good order. Their old 
jokes of course accompanied them, and before the first 
campaign ended, this identical one first appeared in 
print — it gained favour rapidly, till it, penetrated and 



45 



was recognised in every part of our country, and will, 
no doubt continue so long as U. S. remains a nation. 
It originated precisely as above stated ; and the writer 
of this article distinctly recollects remarking, at the 
time when it first appeared in print, to a person who 
was equally aware of its origin, how odd it would be, 
should this silly joke, originating in the midst of beef, 
pork, pickle, mud, salt, and hoop-poles, eventually be- 
come a national cognomen." 

Besides the little information this long noisy 
paragraph conveys, it will serve as a fair specimen 
of the loose and rambling style of their literature, 
which their oratory somewhat resembles. 

When a foreigner decides upon remaining in 
the United States, and wishes to be naturalized, he 
first "declares his intentions;" that is, he has his 
name enrolled in the national records, and receives 
documents, which will, at the expiration of five 
years, if he reside in the States during that period, 
entitle him to the full privileges of a native. The 
expences of this affair amounts to no more than five 
dollars. 

The immense number of emigrants invests the 
city with the appearance of a miscellaneous specimen 
of human beings, from all quarters of the world ; 



46 



yet there is a sufficient majority of native inhabitants 
fully to establish a nationality of character. By the 
best information I could obtain, one-fourth of the 
city are natives of Ireland; and, I think, that all 
other foreigners may be comprised in one-sixth of 
the remainder: these, with 50,000 negroes, taken 
from the gross population returns, will leave about 
225,000 native citizens. This may be about a cor- 
rect estimate; but it is really a very difficult ques- 
tion to answer correctly, the statistical accounts are 
so much at variance. 

Generally speaking, the Irish meet with a much 
better reception than the English. So indeed, do 
all other foreigners; for the natives bear a kind of 
family grudge against John Bull, and it has long 
been fashionable, for many to evince their patriotism, 
by discharging their resentment on the English, 
whom they consider as being more especially his 
legitimate offspring. 



47 



CHAPTER III. 

i 
RESIDENCE IN NEW YORK.— FIRES. — NEGROES.— 

BOARDING HOUSES.— DRESS. 

Fires are here alarmingly numerous, and fre- 
quently of unprecedented magnitude. The firemen 
are a body of volunteers amounting to between 
three and four hundred. They are viewed by their 
fellow citizens, as a class of respectable men ; and 
as occupying a station somewhat similar to our 
local cavalry. They spend their time in the execu- 
tion of their arduous duties, and supply their own 
clothes, without receiving any remuneration, except 
the municipal privileges with which they are reward- 
ed at the completion of their septennial term of 
servitude. I endeavoured to discover, if possible, 
what was the chief cause of these fires ; but could 
arrive at no positive conclusion on the subject. I 
conceive the half smoked cigars, so plentifully 
disseminated in every direction, by men and boys 
of all ages, conditions, and colours, may be one 



48 



reason ; and I know of no other, unless it be the 
carelessness naturally produced by the eternal use 
of the spirit decanter. 

The rates and premiums of Insurance companies 
are perhaps higher here than in any other part of 
the world; yet, in consequence of the numerous 
demands made upon them, these public bodies are 
continually failing. Custom reconciles us to all 
things; and fires are here so common, that these 
good citizens have no idea of the sensations such 
calamities produce with us. I remember an English 
gentleman venturing to state in public company, 
that in a large market town near the place of his 
birth, he only recollected one fire occurring in the 
space of above twenty years. I myself have no doubt 
of the truth of this assertion; yet it was received by 
those present, with marks of suspicion so glaringly 
evident, that I felt sorry that the narrator had 
hazarded his credit for veracity, without calculating 
upon the chances against producing proof. 

Strange as it may appear, during our residence 
in New York and in the country, I never heard 
any well authenticated case of death occasioned 
by any of these fires: although first from motives 



49 



of humanity, and afterwards, from curiosity, we 
constantly subjected this matter to a very close 
investigation. This appeared to me the more aston- 
ishing, because it is well known that in Europe, 
loss of life is too frequently the melancholy concom- 
itant of these awful visitations. 

I noticed some of their many fire engines ; they 
are very handsome, and very, very small. They 
are universally acknowledged to be more powerful 
than ours. Indeed, the good citizens are very loud 
in their praises, and claim the honour of some 
inventions or improvements connected with them ; 
and I will not pluck a single leaf or acorn from 
their civic crown, for which they pay so dearly, but 
will cheerfully acknowledge that their engines are 
of superior construction, and are kept in better 
condition than any other in the world. 

They have hit upon a very ingenious device to 
direct the firemen to that part of the city where 
their assistance is required. Those who first give 
the alarm hasten to the City Hall, whose site occu- 
pies the highest ground in the city. The heavy 
alarm bell is instantly rung, and its sound is re- 
echoed by most of the ting-tangs in the steeples, 

E 



50 



A ball of crimson glass, containing a light, is then 
immediately exposed at the very apex of the obser- 
vatory on the hall ; and its relative position to the 
cupola serves as an index to point out the direction 
of the fire. 

It is impossible to convey an exact idea of the 
frequency and magnitude of these awful incidents. 
From the flat roof of our residence, one evening, I 
saw three fires at the same time ; two of them 
appeared to be of considerable magnitude ; the 
other was only an oil and turpentine store. This 
united demand upon the exertions of the firemen 
was very perplexing to all parties. The people at 
the City Hall were undecided in what direction 
to place their crimson index ; and so, with a view 
of directing to all the three points, they kept per- 
petually shifting it. The firemen, consequently, 
kept altering their course, in a corresponding 
direction to that pointed out by the ball ; till 
the confusion became general, and the fires raged 
so alarmingly, that fears were entertained for the 
safety of the city. At length, the municipal 
authorities sent messengers, who sought out the 
firemen and dispersed them in proper directions; 



51 



and thus happily averted the dreadful conse- 
quences. 

The removing of wooden houses with brick 
chimney-stacks, en masse, is so commonly effected 
here, that to question its practicability would be 
the height of absurdity : yet I understand, that 
even this is treated by us with ridicule, as being 
a matter beyond the range of human possibility. 
How then can I hope for belief, in asserting that 
there are substantial brick houses in the city of 
New York, that have been removed from one 
side of the street to the other, without in the 
least degree, impeding the diurnal arrangements 
of their respective occupants ? I will make no 
such assertion — I will only state, that such houses 
have been pointed out to me, and described as 
having been removed from a station on the op- 
posite side of the street ; and I freely confess I 
am sufficiently weak to believe it. I shall there- 
fore content myself with inserting one of the 
many advertisements I have seen, which I copy 
from the Neio York Gazette, now before me ; 
and leave my readers to conclude as they think 
proper. 



52 



" The Subscriber respectfully informs the public, 
tbat he carries on, extensively, the business of 

MOVING HOUSES 
of any description ; and with the utmost expedition and 
safety; having every necessary apparatus for the purpose. 

J. ACKERMAN. 
220, Division-St., Sept. 22." 

This removal of houses reminds me of the re- 
moval of household furniture, which annually takes 
place on the first of May. By an established custom, 
houses are let from this day for the term of one 
year certain ; and, as the inhabitants in general love 
variety, and seldom reside in the same house for two 
consecutive years, those who have to change, which 
appears to be nearly the whole city, must be all 
removing together. Hence, from the peep of day 
till twilight, may be seen carts which go at a rate 
of speed astonishingly rapid, laden with furniture of 
every kind, racing up and down the city, as if its 
inhabitants were flying from a pestilence, pursued by 
death with his broad scythe just ready to mow them 
into eternity. 

I found the negroes much more numerous, and 
presenting a much better appearance than I ever 
expected ; and I am happy to say, that although still 



DO 



retained in bondage in the Southern States, they are 
all now free in this and the five New England States, 
and have been so for upwards of fifteen years. They 
invariably excite a feeling of deep interest in the 
minds of all Europeans. But I beheld, with acute 
sensations of sorrow, their late task-masters regard- 
ing them with feelings of hatred mingled with con- 
tempt, and as a class far below the rest of the human 
species in point of moral rectitude and intellectual 
power. I was not prepared to find this in a nation 
who are taught to lisp, with their infantile breath, 
that monstrous falsehood — " All men are born free 
and equal." 

This maxim, the pole star of the republic, was 
first promulgated by Thomas Jefferson, whose wri- 
tings are acknowledged by all Democrats as the 
standard of political authority. About the com- 
mencement of the present century this same Thomas 
Jefferson filled the office of President of the United 
States for the period of eight years ; and his memory 
is still held in profound veneration by a large section 
of the Americans. Yet it is well known here, that 
this sublime character had, by his Quadroon slaves 
a vast number of children of both sexes ; whom he 

e3 



54 



retained on his plantation in a state of vassalage, 
and dying left them so ! ! 

It is with no feelings of pleasure that I drag the 
crimes of this atrocious wretch before the public ; 
but, I believe this fact is not known in England, and 
it may serve to give some idea of the charming 
things that are transacted in those regions of slaverv, 
where both the framer and the violator of the law 
are found united in the person of the planter. 
Surely it may here be said, that licentiousness and 
tyranny have met together; democracy and slavery 
have kissed each other. 

The existing slavery of these " free and in- 
dependent" States, combined with the atrocious 
conduct of Jefferson, the progenitor of whole gangs 
of slaves, forms a beautiful comment on his favourite 
apopthegm — 

" All men are born free and equal." 

An expression which declares precisely the same 
doctrine, occupies a prominent position in their 
national manifesto — the famous Declaration of In- 
dependence. 

The projectors of this, their magna charta, must 
have known that this motto is founded on a fallacious 



55 



basis, and will not endure the touchstone of common 
sense, particularly when applied to natal circum- 
stances. Were the base-born progeny of that 
" illustrious champion of liberty", Jefferson, born 
free, and endowed with privileges and advantages 
equal to the children of his amiable contemporary, 
Hamilton ?* Or are the sons of those slaves who now 
groan in fetters in the southern States of this " land 
of liberty", born free and invested with equal rights 
to the children of those Molochs, their masters ? A 
common understanding revolts at the comparison. 
Away with such sophistry to the dark dominions of 
that being whence it emanated ! 

I regard this, not in a political point of view, 
but purely as a case of Liberty and Equality, versus 
Negro Slavery and Oppression. And were it not 
for the sake of humanity, I should have viewed the 
whole affair with indifference, and left the Americans 
to shout praises to the Goddess of Liberty, with as 
much clamour as did the Ephesians of old, to their 
good customer the Goddess Diana. 

This despised class, the Negroes, seems to be 
regarded as being destitute, not only of mental 

* General Hamilton, a man much esteemed for his virtues. 



56 



endowments, but also of the sensibilities of our 
common nature. They are considered as fair 
subjects for the bitterest sarcasm and contempt. 
Children, catching the contagion by example and 
sympathy, regard them as beings that may be 
annoyed and insulted with impunity; dogs are 
encouraged to bark at them ; and, as a crowning 
point, parrots are taught to curse them. I could 
scarcely have believed this, but I know one 
elegant house, where a bird of this kind was much 
admired for the charming accomplishment of thun- 
dering a degrading curse at the head of every pas- 
sing negro. 

Besides their intellectual deficiencies, they are 
charged with a long catalogue of moral misdoings, 
which more properly spring from a neglected 
education than a depraved disposition. I have 
frequently conversed with the females, and have 
always found them remarkably civil, and grateful 
for any trivial act of kindness. They generally 
express themselves in good language, and with an 
enunciation, as bold and as clear as any Englishman. 
This struck me with surprise, as I had formed my 
judgement of their conversational capabilities, from 



57 



the dialogues given in broken English, that I had 
met with in the course of my reading. Their voices 
are rich and melodious, and their singing is much 
admired at church, but all those that I ever saw 
there, sat by themselves ; and I never heard of a 
white man, however low in station he might be, 
that would condescend to sit at the same table with 
a black. 

There is something peculiarly interesting in the 
appearance of their children, when between the ages 
of three and eight. I know not by what laws black- 
ness of skin and sinuosity of hair should, when 
associated, produce an effect at once droll and 
agreeable. But such is the case in an uncommon 
degree. All European ladies, with whom I con- 
versed, acknowledged this; and even the Americans 
were compelled to allow, that these sable Psyches 
and Cupids of the kitchen are very entertaining. 

But I soon found, that to converse in accents of 
kindness with negroes, was not the way to secure 
the estimation of American society ; it is considered 
shockingly coarse and vulgar. On some occasions, 
the negro children themselves have stood in mute 
astonishment, while I have patted the head of one of 



58 



their companions; and such an action has sometimes 
produced a remark, on the strange taste that could 
induce a lady to take notice of such creatures. 

A fracas took place one clay, at our boarding- 
house, arising out of a dispute between two gentle- 
men ; the one a German, and the other an American. 
In the heat of argument, the German expressed 
himself thus: "I will wager a hundred dollars, that 
I produce a negro that is a better calculator than 
you." — The American rose in high anger, and im- 
mediately left the room; declaring that he would 
not sit at the same table with any one, who esteemed 
him no better than a negro. Indeed he carried his 
threat further, for he removed to another house with 
all possible precipitation. The general opinion 
was, that the proposal of the German was a most 
degrading one; and I doubt not, a more fashionable 
method of resentment would have met with un- 
equivocal approbation. 

Until the Americans consent entirely to loose 
the yoke and let the oppressed go free, they 
should cashier the stars and stripes, and adopt the 
following device and motto, which would more 
effectually represent the piebald character of their 
Republic. 



59 



Let this device be, the representation of a man 
wearing the cap of liberty, and brandishing a slave 
whip in his right hand, while his left displays the 
Declaration of Independence; his right foot, at 
the same time resting on the naked back of a 
prostrate negro. — With this motto : 

" All men are born free and equal." 

Negro slavery is the foulest blot on the charac- 
ter of the American government, and their spiteful 
treatment of those who have obtained their freedom, 
represents the " free-borns" in a most ungracious 
point of view. It justifies a stranger in concluding 
that the strong arm of compulsion has wrested these 
oppressed creatures from their iron grasp ; and that, 
like the Egyptians of old, their bond slaves have 
departed much against their will. What ! are these 
blacks indebted to their neighbours, and is it for 
the purpose of obtaining satisfaction, that all classes 
unite in heaping reproaches on their heads ? Truth 
compels me to declare, that the christian whites owe 
to their sable brethren a debt that they can never, 
never liquidate ; and those who have laboured to 
rivet their galling fetters, will answer for it in that 
day, when some from among the most abject negroes 



60 



in the States, shall shine in the splendour of corona- 
tion garments. 

But a haughty spirit of contemptuousness seems 
to prevail among those, in whose composition dul- 
ness and ill nature predominate. Thus the Ameri- 
cans of this order, despise the English ; the resident 
English despise the Irish ; the Irish unite with all 
the rest in despising the Negroes : whom these 
despise I cannot tell, but probably all the rest 
together. 

A magnanimous mind will seek no excuse for 
treating the defenceless with cruel contempt ; and, 
while I freely admit the vanity of these negroes 
is boundless, I contend that it is not to be cured by 
an indiscriminate administration of ill treatment. 
Their advance in civilization will be marked by a 
corresponding contempt for those frivolities, which 
they now so much admire, and no doubt, they will 
ultimately lay them aside. 

A peep into a negro ball room, as at present 
conducted, would certainly provoke the risibility of 
a philosopher. I myself, was never so highly 
favoured, but shall present my readers with a de- 
scription, as nearly as I can recollect it, given by a 



61 



gentleman; just observing from what I have seen of 
their mode of dressing on occasions of festivity, that 
I believe the representation to be correct. — " Dark 
dandies, so starched and stayed as to appear per- 
fectly inflexible, dressed in the very tip of fashion, 
with their poor heads beaming with all the lustre 
that Rowland's Macassar can dispense, may here be 
seen paying their devoirs to their sable belles. 
These last, arrayed in fashionables fresh from 
France; the articles of dress themselves prepos- 
terous, and ill adapted to display the attractions of 
the wearers, by their tasteless combination, magnify 
the absurdity ten-fold. Here, some nymph, assum- 
ing the name of Thalia or Aurora, may be observed, 
with fingers, ears, and wrists, ringed and jewelled 
with a sample of all the tinsel trumpery of Bir- 
mingham ; on her head waves a huge plume of 
white ostrich feathers ; while her dark ancles are 
dimly visible through a pair of British flesh-coloured 
silk stockings ; and her waist so tightly compressed, 
as to give her figure the contour of an hour-glass." 
Poor creatures ! they will some day know better — 
till then, these things may be regarded with the 
passing tribute of a smile. 

F 



62 



Respecting this treatment of negroes, by their 
former owners, the whites of America, I desire to be 
understood as speaking in general terms. Some, I 
know, have kind masters, but all general rules admit 
of individual exceptions. That negro enjoys a great 
advantage who lives under kind superiors ; but, if 
his race be held in contempt by the whole neigh- 
bourhood, he has still the mortifying consciousness 
of knowing that he will be obnoxious to indignity 
and insult, so long as he retains his colour. 

The greater part of the negroes are servants still. 
Those of them that are steady receive excellent 
wages — from eight to twelve dollars per month, 
with board, for a man ; and from six to ten for a 
woman. Those who are not in service, chiefly 
wander about the city carrying their convenient 
apparatus for sawing wood for fuel, and, as they 
are seldom employed for a longer period than two 
hours together, this is a lazy life. I am sure 
the very bones of some must ache with idleness. 
Thus it will appear that although they are the hew- 
ers of wood and drawers of water to the whole 
community, they are not generally overworked. 
Under existing circumstances, they are not likely 



63 



to rise in the scale of society : I did not notice a 
negro among the hundreds of carmen employed in 
this city. 

This numerous class, the carmen, keep each a 
horse and cart, which they own and drive ; and, as 
the merchants keep neither horses nor vehicles, 
they do all the commercial conveyance work in 
the city. They are not hired by any particular 
employer for any specified time, but like hackney 
coachmen with us, are called when required. Their 
carts are much lighter than ours; and with the 
assistance of four moveable posts and a chain, they 
contrive to dispense with both sides and ends. 
Their horses are generally very good ; they appear 
light, and when occasion requires, move as swiftly 
as our coach horses. 

The heavier kind of goods are usually disposed 
in smaller packages, and the whole of the business 
equipage seems, to my judgement, much lighter 
and more convenient than with us. Their porters, 
carmen, and helpers of all kinds move with greater 
alacrity ; and, although I admit I am not a com- 
petent judge in such matters, I consider the Amer- 
icans surpass us in these affairs. 

f2 



64 



Their vessels of all descriptions appear much 
cleaner and handsomer than ours; and this su- 
periority is maintained throughout all classes, from a 
Liverpool Packet to a Long Island market boat. 
A Yankee vessel, see her where you may, can be 
told among a thousand others ; she lies upon the 
water like a swan, and in the midst of shipping 
from all nations, she appears like a swallow among 
other birds. 

Their steam ships are also very large, and most 
beautifully fitted up and furnished. But now a 
passage across the Atlantic may be effected by 
steam, the naval affairs of the whole world will, 
perhaps, undergo a complete revolution : yet this 
would be more speedily effected, were the steam 
apparatus perfectly free from danger. 

The city is well supplied with provisions of 
every kind. On a fair average, they are about 
half the price that they are with us ; though the 
markets are subject to considerable fluctuations. 
They are procured every morning from the city 
markets ; the two principal of which are the 
Washington and the Fulton ; and these are again 
supplied most plentifully from the country, with 



65 



every thing the land produces in all parts of the 
Union : together with abundance of fish, in the 
greatest perfection. 

During the winter, the inhabitants providen- 
tially secure a good supply of ice for summer use. 
Insignificant as this article may appear to us who 
seldom use it, even as a luxury, it is an object of 
paramount importance in a city, where the thermo- 
meter ranges for four months in the year, between 
eighty and a hundred degrees. During this broiling 
season, neither meat, fish, poultry, milk, nor butter, 
could be preserved without its cooling influence; 
and as a luxury at such a season, it is grateful be- 
yond conception. 

One of the principal causes of domestic dis- 
quietude in this part of the world, arises from 
servants. Whether this be the result of the peculiar 
form of the American government or not, I pretend 
not to determine ; but most certainly, the saying of 
Jefferson is as well known by this class as their own 
proper names, by some of them it is as frequently 
repeated, and is taken advantage of by all. If a 
lady requires a servant, she usually makes her wants 
known at one of the many register offices that 

f3 



06 



abound in the city ; or she sends an advertisement 
to the newspaper office, which will be inserted for 
an English shilling. In either case, she is sure of 
having a numerous assemblage, from which she can 
make a selection. The applicants will seem in- 
numerable, comprising individuals of almost every 
nation under heaven, but chiefly from Ireland: and 
it will be a wonder, if any one among them have 
lived in her last place more than a month. As to 
character, the whole affair generally proves a farce : 
I myself, could never obtain any thing more than 
a mere outline. 

I cannot well conceive how servants can be more 
fickle than they are here. Their love of liberty 
prompts them to change their places, almost as 
frequently as they change their dresses ; and as to 
equality, they always demand a seat at the same 
table with the heads of the family, in the country ; 
and in many instances, in the city. Seldom indeed, 
can a girl be prevailed upon to remain on the 
premises after tea time; for, as her mistress spends 
the evening out whenever she pleases, the girl thinks 
she cannot do better than imitate her example. 
But the latter frequently forgets to return at the 



67 



time appointed, and the worst of it is, want of 
punctuality arising from this cause is not always 
the greatest annoyance. But, I forget myself — 
servants they will not submit to be called; this 
term is especially resisted by the free-born sister- 
hood; they are therefore, denominated helps, hel- 
pers, or hands. 

So much for a single servant; and a plurality is 
sure to increase the perplexity. I was frequently 
reminded of that saying of old Elwes, "If you keep 
one servant, your work is done; if you keep two, it 
is half done; if three are kept you may do it your- 
self." Yet, the first section of this aphorism does 
not correctly apply ; for the work of a mistress is 
never completely done here, by either one servant or 
more, and must in many parts for ever go undone, 
unless she do it herself. 

The perplexity arising from servants, has influ- 
enced many small families to prefer residing from 
year to year, in a boarding-house. Although this 
custom appears very singular at first, as do all 
domestic arrangements with which we are unac- 
quainted; yet I must confess, it has its recommenda- 
tions, and upon the whole, I liked it as well as 



68 



occupying a house of my own. As our apartments 
in Beekman-street were not, in all respects, suited to 
our convenience, we removed to a boarding-house 
situated in the immediate vicinity of the City Hall, 
where we were provided with permanent accommo- 
dation; and remained here during our continuance 
in the city. The inmates of the house have, of course, 
their own sleeping rooms; and these, according to 
the number of the party, or the kind of accommoda- 
tion desired. The whole company, with the excep- 
tion of the children, assemble in the public room at 
meal times; besides which, there is a public sitting 
room ; and, should a private apartment be required 
for any temporary purpose, it can always be obtained 
in an establishment of any pretensions. 

The order of the house is (for in describing one 
I describe all,) to breakfast in summer at eight, dine 
at two, and take tea at six. The breakfast table 
is furnished with tea, coffee, and chocolate, be- 
sides viands of various kinds, both hot and cold, 
and also with fish and fruit when in season. Dinner 
presents nothing remarkable; the table is supplied 
with much about the same fare as with us, only with 
a little more attention to variety. Tea is the last 



69 



repast, and a massive one it is. Besides tea and 
coffee, and a second edition of the substantial cold 
fare that figured at the breakfast table, there are 
sweetmeats and preserves in every variety, with a 
countless display of cakes, the very naming of which 
would appear upon paper like a confectioner's 
catalogue ; while melons, or pine apples, when in 
season, bring up the rear. After this, what more is 
required ? Being accustomed to take supper in 
Europe we fancied we required it here, and were 
accommodated, but as we found we were the only 
party who partook of that meal, we felt somewhat 
uncomfortable, and learned in course of time to 
adopt the custom of our neighbours, which we found 
by experience, in this respect to be preferable to 
our own. 

The quality of the fare provided is usually of 
the very best. I have often thought that the 
Americans, as a nation, sacrifice the pleasures of 
intellectual taste to mere animal gratification ; and 
notwithstanding the variety displayed at their re- 
pasts, I found it difficult to make a selection of food 
saflficiently plain for myself and my children. They 
rally us on our partiality for the pleasures of the 



70 



table, and we receive it with hearty good nature ; 
but really the national joke of the roast beef of old 
England comes with a very bad grace from trans- 
atlantic epicures. Like all other establishments, 
boarding houses are various in character. They 
differ very little from each other in the fare they 
provide, but the description of the house, and the 
terms, are considered a just criterion of the circum- 
stances and quality of the company they entertain. 
The terms are of every variety, from three dollars 
per week, to — I know not what sum. My husband 
and myself paid a hundred dollars per month ; in 
this sum I have not included any thing connected 
with the children. Perhaps, some may think the 
mention of this an unnecessary display of personal 
parade. My reason for it is this. I have so often 
heard individuals who have written on America, 
charged with associating with the canaile of the 
nation, and their testimony, on this assumption, has 
been rejected by numbers, that in order to rebut 
this anticipated charge I have furnished the reader 
with an acknowledged standard in order to assist 
him in the formation of his judgement. 

Besides ourselves, the inmates of this establish- 



71 



ment consisted of two married pairs, a brother and 
sister, and two single gentlemen: the gentlemen 
were all either professional men or merchants. Fre- 
quently the company was diversified, by the intro- 
duction of a lady or gentleman from Virginia, or 
from some other of the southern states, who had 
taken a trip hither, for the purpose of avoiding the 
excessive heat at home ; and sometimes two ladies 
would drop down the Hudson from the north for a 
few week's pleasure. Some one of the gentlemen 
also, would occasionally introduce a friend fresh 
from the other side of the Atlantic; so that, it was 
no uncommon occurrence for us to converse, on the 
same day, with individuals from many different parts 
of the globe. 

After breakfast, we used to withdraw to the 
sitting-room, and either read or work with the 
needle; or, if more agreeable, we could retire to 
our private apartments. We could spend our time 
either privately or in public according to our incli- 
nations: and with agreeable society, for ours was 
remarkably so, what could be more desirable? 
But what became of the children ? will be a natural 
question. These were no source of annoyance — - 



72 



they were sent to school, or attended in the nursery, 
or, if of sufficient age, were admitted into the sitting- 
room. That woman is not worthy of the name of 
either wife or mother, in whose vocabulary the word 
' trouble' has a place, when the comfort of her hus- 
band or her children is the object. 

So small a portion of time being occupied in 
affairs of a domestic nature, leaves the ladies leisure 
for reading, and for the construction of elaborate 
articles of fancy dress. Their fashions are imported 
from Paris, which however, do not at all times appear 
to become them ; but here as in England, any ab- 
surdity has its charms, that is countenanced by the 
recommendation of a French milliner. The gentle- 
men dress after the English style, and plates of the 
newest London fashions, are displayed in the shop 
windows of every tailor in New York. 

The Americans are commonly charged with 
eating with voracious avidity, I know this to be 
strictly true with some; but the charge does not apply 
in all its disgusting details, against the members of, 
what is considered, good society. The first exhibi- 
tion I witnessed of this national peculiarity was on a 
steam-ship tour; until then I do not recollect that I 



73 



had even heard of it. It is most true, they do not 
indulge in conversation while dining; and this, not 
only detracts from that sociability which at all times 
graces an English repast; but it also throws a sombre 
shade over the whole affair. 

Nothing can exceed the abhorrence with which 
European ladies view the disgusting practices I 
now feel myself called upon to mention. The dis- 
agreeable creatures, almost to a man, chew tobacco 
and spit most incessantly. These odious practices 
are too universal to admit of any palliation from 
individual exceptions. What pleasure can the 
things — wretches I was going to write, find in this 
loathsome practice ? It unfits them for the society 
even of those females, who have the lowest claims to 
respectability — it injures their health — it makes them 
hateful and hated go where they may ; — and I could 
almost wish for the supremacy of the Pope, to pre. 
dominate in America for the single purpose of 
carrying into effect the edict of Urban VII. against 
the use of tobacco. 

It is painful to dwell on these things, but having 
coupled the above foul practices and dismissed them 
with the thunders of the Vatican, it would be unfair 



74 



to let the master vice of the nation escape, without 
a sentence of disapprobation ; I mean the drinking 
of ardent spirits. I will not call it the vice of drunk- 
enness, for, all I could learn inclines me to question 
the capability of the gentlemen of the Union to 
commit this sin. As a nation, they are brought up 
from their very infancy to drink ardent spirits, and 
by the time they arrive at years of maturity they 
become so habituated to the practice, that spirits 
cease to affect them in a manner similar to others. 
Who can sufficiently estimate the blessings that flow 
from cheap rum ? I have witnessed infants washed 
in it — being attainable by all, boys have been known 
to enter school under its influence — and it has slain 
its thousands in the prime of manhood. 

That temperance societies have improved these 
things, I cheerfully admit ; for the practice had pro- 
duced effects so appaling, that even the depraved 
shuddered to contemplate them. But still the use 
of the solitary dram is not banished, even from 
among the higher orders of the community. 

These evil spirits are here made to assume all 
the attractions that a depraved ingenuity, guided 
by avarice, can possibly invent. The taste is con- 



15 



suited either by bitter, sweet, or acid, or by a plea- 
sing combination of all. If the weather be cold, 
spices are in request ; if hot, ice is introduced to 
impart a grateful coolness. 

I would by no means advise any young man 
whether ignorant or educated, who has the least 
relish for these things, to cross the Atlantic; for, 
I consider if he have only the slightest inclination 
for them here, his life is not worth four years pur- 
chase, from the day he sets foot on the coast of 
America. In the short space of two years, how 
many have I known and heard of, who, by this 
destructive vice, have been cut off in the flower of 
their days! The absent friends of such seldom 
know the real cause of their death ; and consump- 
tion, or some other disorder, frequently serves as 
the mantle to cover the horrid aspect of the familiar 
spirit they have consulted, as a similar vesture veiled 
the shade of the reputed prophet. * 

* 1 Sam., xxviii., 14. 



G2 



76 



CHAPTER IV. 

VOYAGE UP THE HUDSON— NEW ENGLAND 
SABBATH DAY RACE. 

Throughout the preceding chapters, I have con- 
sidered our voyage across the Atlantic, only in the 
light of a successful speculation ; and so indeed it 
was in all points but one ; but that one was unfor- 
tunately of the utmost importance — I mean health. 
My family had enjoyed this blessing almost without 
alloy, in all our previous travels, and this circum- 
stance, perhaps, rendered us a little impatient under 
the infliction of the first reverse. 

After we had remained in the city a few months, 
my husband was attacked with a disorder that fre- 
quently rages here, called the chills and fever; one 
distressing peculiarity of which is, that it leaves 
the patient for a long time in a weak and languid 
condition. This was to us a circumstance of a 
serious nature, for as all our earthly dependence 



77 



was founded upon his exertions, as a private teacher ; 
if he were incapacitated by sickness from pursuing 
the duties of his profession, it required no augur 
to foretel the consequences. But as in other affairs, 
America had not only answered, but had greatly 
exceeded our expectations, we felt every disposition 
to give the climate a fair trial before we totally 
abandoned it. 

As soon as my husband was sufficiently convales- 
cent, we amused ourselves with visiting Staten 
Island, Long Island, the coast of New Jersey, and 
other places within a convenient distance of the city, 
for the advantage of change of scene and air ; and 
also to select a country residence, with the view of 
ascertaining the effect of the climate, under what 
we conceived to be, the most advantageous circum- 
stances. The chief of these excursions of pleasure 
was our trip to Albany, the State Capital of New 
York, situated about a hundred and fifty miles up 
the Hudson, or the North River, as it is here 
generally denominated. 

Since I had been in America, I had heard, 
with perfect indifference, the scenery of the Hudson 
whispered in accents of faint praise ; and as I expec- 

g3 



78 



ted to see nothing more than a fine river winding 
its course through a forest, I was totally unprepared 
tor the pleasure that awaited me. It is not without 
some faint misgivings, arising from a latent sense of 
insufficiency for such a task, that I hazard an attempt 
to describe this charming scenery. 

Embarked on board a superb steam ship, we 
went at a rapid rate, and quickly left the city in the 
distance. A long series of perpendicular rocks, of 
various altitudes, crowned with trees and bushes, 
and fluted as if by art, forms the western barrier of 
this noble river; on the other side, the mansions of 
the opulent, with their pleasure grounds, reflect a 
beauteous contrast. We now leave the dwellings of 
man, and the wildness of nature seems to maintain 
uninterrupted sway; when suddenly the river widens 
into what appears to be an expansive lake, whose 
glassy bosom reflects the surrounding woods and 
rocks, and the tree-bearing islets which it encircles. 
Again the stream is contracted by two gigantic 
rocks, which lift their l awful form 5 from each side 
of its margin. We dart through this channel, and 
another expansive prospect opens to our view enrich- 
ed with all the charms of the former, in addition 



79 



to the blue mountains of Catskill in perspective. 
Here, it seems as if nature had studied to dispose 
woods, rocks, mountains, and lakes, in positions 
the most graceful and majestic; so sublime and 
lovely are the objects that meet the eye in every 
direction. 

Besides nature's attractions, other interesting 
circumstances are associated with the surrounding 
scenery. About forty miles above the city, is 
the memorable district called the neutral ground, 
on the borders of which the struggle was the fiercest 
during the revolutionary war. This is the province 
that Cooper has chosen for the scenes of his 'Spy.' 
Here also is the melancholy spot where the 
unfortunate Major Andre was captured, and the 
place of his execution may be seen from the river. 
'Sleepy Hollow' was also pointed out to us, and 
farther on is the village of Rip Van Winkle of 
somniferous notoriety. Among these the rock of 
Sing Sing, crowned with the dismal ornament of 
the largest prison in world, forces itself upon 
our notice, and induces a feeling dashed with 
rather too much sadness, to be strictly pleas- 
ing. 



80 



Before this sail up the Hudson, I conceived 
nothing could exceed the beauties of the Isle of 
Wight, and some choice scenes on the lakes of 
Scotland; but all these must certainly yield the 
palm to the scenery of the Hudson. To be fully 
appreciated it must be seen. The surrounding 
objects, indeed, may be named upon paper, but who 
can faithfully describe the atmosphere ! 

The established regulations on board the steam 
ships, oblige the gentlemen to occupy the fore cabin, 
and leave the ladies in uninterrupted possession of 
the after one. We had therefore, no gentlemen in 
our company, except when on deck. Although this 
division of the sexes may be viewed with reluctance 
at first, by those who have husbands and brothers 
on board; yet ladies are generally reconciled to the 
arrangement, because they are secure from the mul- 
titudinous annoyances, produced by the free con- 
sumption of spirits and tobacco. However, the 
ladies and gentlemen dine together, and on the pre- 
sent occasion, the company amounted to above two 
hundred. The same scenes variously affect different 
persons, and this was the first time in my life that I 
had dined with so large and so heterogeneous an 



81 



assemblage. I felt much annoyed by hearing the 
rough phrases bandied about among the gentlemen, 
while taking possession of their places. Soon, how- 
ever, the dinner appeared, and the company com- 
menced operation in earnest. Although but few 
words were spoken, it was by no means a silent 
repast ; dispatch was the order of the day — I had 
never before seen any thing like it — and from the 
effect of the queer objects that presented themselves 
to my notice, I confess I felt a much stronger incli- 
nation for laughing than feasting. But violent 
exertions are usually of short duration ; and in pure 
astonishment, I stared when the first signs pro- 
claimed the battle to be over. The gentlemen 
withdrew to their part of the vessel, and the ladies 
to the deck, and to the best of my judgement, the 
whole affair was concluded in less than ten minutes ! 
My husband and myself embraced the first op- 
portunity of comparing notes. The scenery and the 
dinner was all during the voyage, that we witnessed 
in common ; the former we enjoyed, the latter we 
did not. As all the females were consigned to one 
particular quarter of the vessel, I had an opportu- 
nity of spending about twelve hours in company 



82 



with a fair sample of the American ladies. The 
chilling impression left on my mind by the image of 
the captain's wife, mentioned in the first chapter, 
had long since passed away ; and although a full 
acquaintance with the character of that worthy lady 
had been of singular service to me, I was alike 
averse by nature and judgement, to condemn a 
whole nation for the reprobated failings of a single 
individual. The city lady might here be distin- 
guished from the rest, as she paced the deck, by 
her close adherence to the latest Parisian fashions ; 
and the plain Dutch dame by her plain Dutch dress. 
Otherwise, there is a greater uniformity of external 
appearance, than would be seen with us, under simi- 
lar circumstances. One thing in particular, I must 
not omit, though I never heard it before observed by 
any individual — I mean the striking uniformity of 
look — the statue-like appearance of the countenance, 
that prevails so universally among the women. 
They seem to be totally incapable of expressing 
mental emotions by any visible change of counte- 
nance, even when conversing upon excitable sub- 
jects. The cause of this I must leave to others to 
determine. 



83 



My husband thus describes the proceedings in 
his part of the vessel : 

" The fore cabin was furnished with a bar, 
where ardent spirits and tobacco were supplied to 
those of the passengers that were destitute of such 
blessings ; and the regularity with which the glass 
circulated, might very well illustrate perpetual 
motion. The gentlemen were associated together 
in small groups, and were conversing on various 
subjects, but chiefly on that theme of which the 
Americans never seem to tire — the revolutionary 
war; the presence of an Englishman is almost 
certain to produce a note from this string. A num- 
ber were amusing themselves by rallying a squire, 
as a justice of the twenty-five dollar court is here 
termed, and a little dark man, who figured as the 
deacon of a church. It appeared that the deacon 
was a farmer, and his neighbour the squire, kept a 
store for the sale of almost every thing, and for the 
convenience of barter, or i trading,' as they call it. 
One cold morning during the last winter, the 
deacon took six bushels of wheat to the store of the 
squire, to be exchanged for as much salt as could 
be mutually agreed upon. After some time and 



84 



many words were spent in maneuvering, they con- 
sented to barter measure for measure. The deacon 
proceeded to mete out his grain, while the squire 
complaining of the coldness of the morning amused 
himself by stamping upon his elastic floor. The 
deacon, of course, could not object to his neighbour 
warming his toes in what manner he pleased, in his 
own store, he therefore said nothing, although he 
discovered that this stamping had consolidated his 
six bushels of wheat into the compass of five and a 
half. The squire then commenced his part of the 
contract — to measure out the salt; and a chillness 
conveniently seized the toes of the deacon, which 
he endeavoured to counteract by stamping, after the 
example of the squire. i Stop, stop,' said the squire, 
' what are you stamping for V ' To warm my toes,' 
was the answer. 'But do you not see how you 
shake down the salt ?' ' Not more than you shook 
down the wheat,' was the reply. And so, as they 
acknowledged, 'they got a fair trade between 
them.' 

There was a youth on board whom I regarded 
with curiosity ; he bore so striking a resemblance to 
Brom Bones, the hero of Sleepy Hollow, that 



85 



nothing was wanting but the fox's tail in his hat to 
complete the similitude. I felt an unconquerable 
inclination to learn something of this 'roystering 
blade,' and for this purpose, I stepped up to a young 
man, with whom he had just been conversing, and 
was very soon fully gratified. From this informant 
I learned a few circumstances concerning the hero 
in question; — that, like his model, he was fond 
of a spirited horse ; and that he had lately 
figured conspicuously in a race — not with a gob- 
lin for a gallon of cider, but with a more sub- 
stantial personage in the form of a deacon. I 
quite forget his name, for the image of Brom 
Bones was so correctly delineated in my mind, 
that it entirely obliterated his proper name from 
my memory. 

It is necessary here to explain that in some 
townships in New England, a law is very 
properly enacted, against all Sunday travel- 
ling, except for the purpose^of going to, and 
returning from a place of worship; any vio- 
lation of which is visited with a fine of ten 
dollars. 

A few Sundays ago, this Brom Bones accompa- 

H 



86 



nied with his negro in a very light wagon* drawn 
by an excellent horse, was out on a spree; and his 
road lying close by a church, he determined to push 
forwards in defiance of the law r , and hazard the con- f 
sequences; concluding that as the service had com- 
menced, he should meet with no interruption. As 
he dashed past the church, he saw the horses belong- 
ing to the members of the congregation, tied up 
under a row of high trees, as is usual on such occa- 
sions in the summer; but to his dismay, he also saw 
the deacon, bustling through the church-yard to 
mount his poney, as he guessed, to give him chase. 

Now, as one half of the fine goes to the informer, 
and as it is represented with too much truth, alas, 
that these same deacons are ' given to filthy lucre, 
look to thyself Brom Bones. Away went Bones, 
and away went the deacon; the one impelled by the 
fear of losing ten dollars, and the other stimulated 
with the hope of gaining five. Nor was the chase 
without spectators; for a portion of the juveniles 
guessing at what was up, from the sound of the 

* This vehicle is universally used by the country people ; it bears no 
resemblance to an English wagon, but is in fact, the lightest four-wheeled 
vehicle that can be conceived. 



1 



87 



wheels, and the sudden absence of the deacon, 
slipped out to view the sport, from the hill on which 
the church stood. 

Bones's confidence in his horse began to fail, as 
he perceived the deacon gaining ground, and, like 
the beaver in the fable, he judged it the best policy 
to relinquish a part, in order to save the whole. 
He hastily gave a silver dollar to his negro, directing 
him to display it fully in the eyes of the deacon, and 
then deliberately to let it fall on the road. The 
negro obeyed ; and the stratagem for that time had 
the desired effect. The deacon dismounted — for 
what deacon that keeps a store, w r ould be so improvi- 
dent as to ride over a dollar? While his pursuer was 
securing the coin, Bones exerted all his energies to 
escape from his clutches. But the deacon was 
quickly mounted, and again in the field. 

The negro hinted to his master that the deacon's 
poney was ' bio wed,' and that another dollar would 
save the ten. Bones thought the experiment worth 
trying, and furnished the black with the cash. 
Carefully did blackey turn it in the sun, to ensure its 
being seen distinctly ; for he knew the race depended 
upon this point, as the deacon was just upon his 

h2 



88 



haunches. He dropped it, and the deacon alighted, 
gathered it up, and speedily re-mounted. Five 
miles had now been ridden over with the utmost 
speed, and both horses showed symptoms of dis- 
tress — now hope prevailed, and now fear, in the 
breasts of the contending parties. At length a 
( pretty considerable' slough at a turn in the road 
suddenly appeared to the horror of poor Bones, and 
closed the chase in favour of the deacon. Bones's 
horse and wagon were seized as security for the fine ; 
and his spiritual pursuer kept the two dollars as a 
remuneration for his exertions." . 

I cannot say I admire these incidents; I must 
therefore plead their decided marks of national 
character as an apology for their insertion. The 
latter in particular, will illustrate the indecorous 
manner in which sacred and pecuniary matters are 
here associated, more effectually than if volumes of 
sentiment were written on the subject. 

Albany is the second city in the state of New 
York, it contains, I suppose, about 2500 inhabitants, 
a very large portion of which are Dutch; here are 
to be seen the oldest buildings in the United 
States. 



89 



In order to see as much of the country as possi- 
ble, we landed on our return from Albany, at a 
small town a little below west point, and about fifty 
miles above New York ; having decided upon pro- 
ceeding through the country towns by whatever 
conveyance we could obtain. This may appear a 
wild-goose scheme, but I think of it with much 
pleasure, as, in addition to the beauties of the 
scenery, which were passing lovely, we had an 
opportunity of seeing the villages and their inhabi- 
tants in their unadorned simplicity. We were fully 
gratified, for the enjoyment more than compensated 
for the inconvenience. 

The place and neighbourhood where we landed, 
on the west bank of the Hudson, consists of several 
thousand acres almost exclusively occupied by 
families of Dutch extraction. They speak both 
Dutch and English fluently, are a simple hearted 
class of beings, read their bibles, and most cordially 
hate the Yankees. 

I ought to have before explained this term, 
" Yankee". It is applied by all the Americans to 
the inhabitants of the five New England States, viz. 
Vermont, Massachusets, New Hampshire, Rhode 

h3 



90 



Island, and Connecticut. These same Yankees are 
reported by their southern neighbours as being 
remarkable for inquisitiveness and roguishness ; and 
many of them acknowledge this equivocal species 
of compliment, and admit its justice with com- 
placency. — While here, we were told a farm had 
recently been purchased in the neighbourhood by 
a Yankee, and that the Dutchmen had submitted 
to some pecuniary sacrifice, in order to re-purchase 
it. I asked the reason, and received this answer, 
" We were frightened at him." 

Families descended from the earliest settlers 
inhabit the banks of the Hudson. Their furniture, 
manners, and affairs, conduct the mind back to the 
days of the pilgrim fathers. But nothing is declining 
here ; new houses are building, the forest is daily 
yielding to the axe, and all things are in a state 
of active improvement. It is not in America, that 
Sultan Mahmoud's owls can endow their sons and 
daughters with ruined villages. 

The farmer here spins his own wool and flax, 
and generally weaves his own cloth ; he mends his 
own farming implements, consumes the produce of 
his own land, and barters the remainder for other 



91 



necessaries. As he has neither rent, tithes, nor 
taxes to pay, it is no wonder that his industry enables 
him to live in a state of absolute profusion. 

Avowedly, I have never read any work com- 
pletely through that has appeared on the United 
States of America, but have formed my judgement 
of the character of some from common report, and 
the few extracts that have fortuitously fallen in my 
way. It appears to me, that the observations of 
the Americans, respecting many of these publica- 
tions are nearly correct, viz. That they are penned 
to please some particular party, and not to promul- 
gate a true representation of facts. 

I will just state one instance, which I copy from 
a work that I never saw, till my attention was called 
to it this very hour. The authoress is giving an 
account of the American farmers, whom she honours 
with the designation of " Small landed proprietors, 
who farm their own freehold estates." 

"When in Maryland, I went into the houses of 
several of these small proprietors, and remained long 
enough, and looked and listened sufficiently, to obtain 
a tolerably correct idea of their manner of living. One 
of these families consisted of a young man, his wife, two 



92 



children, a female slave, and two young lads, slaves also. 
The farm belonged to the wife, and I was told, consisted 
of about three hundred acres of indifferent land, but all 
cleared. The house was built of wood, and looked as if 
the three slaves might have overturned it, had they pushed 
hard against the gable end. It contained one room of 
about twelve feet square; and another, adjoining it, 
hardly larger than a closet : this second chamber was the 
lodging-room of the white part of the family. Above 
these rooms was a loft without windows, where, I was 
told, the " staying company" who visited them, were 
lodged. Near this mansion was a " shanty," a black 
hole, without any window, which served as a kitchen 
and all other offices, and also as the lodging of the 
blacks!!! 

We were invited to take tea with this family, and 
readily consented to do so. (!) Her female slave set out 
the great table, and placed upon it cups of the very 
coarsest blue ware, a little brown sugar in one, and a tiny 
drop of milk in another; no butter, though the lady 
assured us she had a " deary" and two cows. Instead of 
butter, she " hoped we would fix a little relish with our 
crackers," in ancient English, eat salt meat and dry 
biscuits. Such was the fare !" 

This lady must have been dreaming of a witches 
den. Only think of two black boys and one man, 
and he the owner, to do the work on a farm com- 



93 



prising three hundred acres of cleared land ! And 
what premises ! Where could the men live, while 
engaged in the long and arduous employment of 
clearing the land? There are no workhouses here, 
whence gangs of paupers may be hired at pleasure. 
Reflecting on what I have seen, I much question 
whether such a place as this could be found, as an 
abode for human beings, in any part of the Union. 
Consider the fare — salt fish and biscuits — and for 
English visiters too! Why, the very mice would 
desert such a dwelling ! The whole affair assumes 
such an air of improbability, that if it contain even 
one single atom of truth, that atom is buried in 
falsehood. 

But the worst feature is, that this is advanced 
as a sample of farm-house fare and farm-house 
hospitality in the United States. Verily, I have 
lived in an American farm-house, I have dined and 
taken tea in several, perhaps scores, in various 
directions from, and within a hundred miles of 
New York; yet, I never saw any thing like this ! 
The farmers are much more censurable for their 
extravagant profusion than for their meanness. 
And when they entertain European visiters, they 



94 



are so fond of displaying their abundance, that it 
is a very rare thing for them to allow such guests to 
depart destitute of substantial tokens of their liber- 
ality. In fact, many among them take care that 
their male guests shall not leave their dwellings 
either sorrowful or sober. 

Most freely do I admit, that persons of pure 
intentions may be mistaken in trivial matters, and 
thus innocently mislead others; but truth is quite 
as easily written as spoken, and should be particu- 
larly regarded in a narrative on the domestic 
manners of a foreign nation. Here, all fictitious 
descriptions, isolated cases, and every thing calcu- 
lated to mislead, should be entirely discarded. 



95 



CHAPTER V. 

COUNTRY RESIDENCE.— THUNDER AND LIGHTNING-— 
CLIMATE— CHEAP LAW- 

After various excursions and much deliberation, 
we fixed upon a small estate, comprising an excel- 
lent dwelling-house, with out-offices, and above fifty 
acres of land, delightfully situated on Long Island, 
and within about twenty-five miles from New York. 
This was the most delightful residence, both for 
beauty of situation and internal convenience that I 
ever inhabited, but with all its attractions, it was 
the scene of my severest afflictions. 

The agreeable change from city to country at 
the delightful season of spring, made the first few 
weeks pass away most pleasantly. In this quarter 
of the globe, winter reigns with undisputed sway, 
from the first day of November to the last of April. 
At the close of this period, nature, refreshed by so 
long a repose and enlivened by the genial warmth of 
the sun, throws off the sombre robe of winter, and 
suddenly appears clad in her most lovely attire. 



96 



Birds of gay plumage resembling those of the 
tropics, with woodland flowers of all hues, and the 
bright foliage of the forest trees, simultaneously 
spring into existence with a rapidity that with us, 
would be considered miraculous. As an instance, 
I distinctly remember the buds of the trees being 
firmly closed on the 28th of April, and on the 12th 
of the following May, the foliage of the whole of 
them was as fully developed as in the midst of 
summer. 

Strictly speaking, the American spring is con- 
fined to the first fortnight in May. It is a most 
delightful season, but sadly too short. Birds, such 
as for beauty, I never before saw at large, enliven 
the scenery with their bright plumage. Choice 
flowers, thick and numberless " as autumnal leaves 
that strew the brooks in Vallombrosa" are here 
seen, with their rich colours enhancing each others 
charms by a beauteous contrast. While myriads of 
butterflies, not the small pale coloured things of 
northern Europe, but creatures with wings of un- 
common size and beauty, contribute their share to 
increase this fund of pleasure. Neither pen nor 
pencil can do justice to the landscape scenery at 



97 



this period, viewed as it is, through the medium of 
a clear atmosphere, that imparts a glowing warmth 
and renders the whole truly enchanting. 

Every rose has its thorn, and the same bright 
sun that calls into existence these beauties, awakens 
also swarms of serpents and venomous reptiles of 
every kind. The bite of some of these is attended 
with distressing circumstances, and others among 
them, such as the black serpent and the copper- 
headed viper, have been known to inflict mortal 
wounds. I believe I am not whimsically affected, 
yet I could never look upon these dreadful creatures 
without shuddering, as they wriggled their way in 
odious contortions just from before my feet. The 
caution required to avoid stepping upon them, and 
the fear of some that are known to pursue the human 
species, greatly detracted from the pleasure of my 
woodland rambles ; and, like the sword impending 
over the head of Damocles, dashed all my rural 
pleasure with fearful apprehension. 

One day while walking in the garden, I narrowly 
escaped a bite from a black serpent, which our 
man-servant afterwards succeeding in killing; its 
skin was variegated with all the darker shades of 

i 



98 



different colours beautifully arranged : it measured 
five feet two inches in length. After this, I was 
determined to walk in no other than a clear path. 

About the latter part of May the heat of the sun 
becomes oppressive. Then, farewell to pleasure. 
Clouds of musquitoes are ushered into existence, 
and myriads of flies fill every room. Now our 
dress, and almost our lives, become burthensome, 
we fan ourselves from morning to night and feel for 
those who are not blessed with an ice-house, 
Although the common flies are extremely numerous* 
they bear no proportion to the musquitoes in point 
of annoyance. These are considered as minor evils 
by some persons, but as respects myself, the sharp 
stinging wounds inflicted by the latter, will not be 
very soon forgotten. I was confined to the house 
under medical treatment for a fortnight, in conse- 
quence of a bite I received from a musquito. Cer- 
tainly this is a singular case; but still it furnishes a 
proof of their noxious powers. I have often been 
told, that in their visitations, they respect the per- 
sons of those who are accustomed to drink largely 
of rum ; but to the truth of this assertion my eyes 
and understanding refused their assent. iVblution 



99 



in this liquor, it is true, is very grateful after 
enduring a day's campaign with them; and as a 
lotion for allaying the pain produced by these 
insects, it is certainly useful. 

With the hot weather comes thunder and light- 
ning, and rain. The latter invariably falls in torrents, 
and if the wheat grew as high and as heavy in the 
ear as with us, it certainly could never arrive at 
maturity. A transatlantic thunder storm is truly 
sublime and terrible. The sky first becomes covered 
with black clouds, the wind blows violently, the 
clouds suddenly expand, and emit what appears to 
be a broad stream of liquid fire ; the thunder instan- 
taneously bursts forth with a crash, that I suppose, 
all the artillery in the world could not equal. This 
is usually repeated twice or thrice, and the storm 
exhausted by its own violence, is suddenly succeeded 
by a delightful calm. iEolus rends the vail of black 
clouds from the face of the sun, which now seems 
to shine with increasing heat and splendour ; while 
the earth, being previously parched with exces- 
sive heat, and now suddenly deluged with torrents 
of rain, emits clouds of vapour, that for a short time 
envelope the landscape in a dense fog. This is 



100 



quickly dispersed by the excessive heat of the sun ; 
the arid earth again thirsts for moisture, and we 
soon forget the storm. The opinion prevailing in 
Europe respecting the salubrity of the United 
States, is more favourable than an examination will 
warrant. My remarks on this subject are the result 
of a patient and most painful investigation, aided by 
experience, alas, too dearly purchased. I shall 
confine my observations on the climate to the first 
summer we passed in America, and the succeeding 
winter ; which, from being more uniform than the 
last year, are less liable to objection. The state of 
the thermometer and the variations of the winds, I 
select from a dairy kept by my husband during our 
residence in the United States. The greatest heat 
this summer was a hundred and five degrees. From 
mid-day to five in the afternoon, during the months 
of July, August, and September, the thermometer 
ranged between ninety and a hundred degrees — 
seldom above the latter, and in very few instances 
below the former; while the universal stillness of 
the air, rendered the heat quite as overpowering, 
and even more so, than the state of the index 
warrants us to suppose. 



101 



The climate, and its effects upon the constitution, 
are always distasteful subjects to the Americans. 
They cannot subscribe to any other doctrine, than 
that which recommends theirs as the most salubrious 
climate in the world. This is asserted by them with 
as much confidence as if it were a self-evident truth ; 
and all who dispute it, are in danger of being over- 
whelmed by a torrent of displeasure. A physician 
paid us a visit one broiling day in July, and certainly 
did acknowledge that it was then hot — but, checking 
himself, he observed, "that the heat was nothing to 
speak of — just fair summer weather — hotter, no 
doubt than in England — but the perfection of sum- 
mer." We observed that the heat had, for some 
days past, been above ninety-six degrees in the 
shade. As we expected, he manifested symptoms of 
incredulity, which however, we soon dispelled by 
referring him to the thermometer, then standing at 
ninety-eight degrees. In the absence of positive 
proof like this, they will endeavour to evade the 
question in any way, rather than submit to acknow- 
ledge any fact that would jeopardize the character of 
their climate. And truly it is admirable, if a 
Jamaica summer succeeded by a Moscow winter, 

i 3 



102 



under one parallel, be acknowledged the standard 
of perfection. 

I discovered to my sorrow, that the morning air 
here is not so wholesome as in England; on the 
contrary, it is considered most pernicious. This 
greatly perplexed me in selecting the best time for a 
walk. The physician had interdicted the matutinal 
breezes — the mid-day was not to be thought of — 
and the evening gales were very unwholesome, and 
frequently as deadly and chill as the breath of the 
death angel. There are no cool evenings here in 
the summer as with us, so refreshing and so pleasant, 
in which we may luxuriate in all the delights of an 
evening's ramble. While the sun is above the hori- 
zon, he blazes away with insufferable heat, and his 
descent is mostly succeeded by a chillness that re- 
sembles the icy hand of death to the feelings, and 
frequently is such in reality to those who are often 
exposed to its influence. The sudden vicissitudes of 
the atmosphere, I consider the most dangerous fea- 
ture of the whole affair ; for, incredible as it may 
appear, the mercury has fallen from ninety-five to 
fifty-six degrees in the short space of three hours. 
A variation of twenty or twenty-five degrees, in the 



103 



same period, is by no means an uncommon occur- 
rence. 

The houses in the country are almost universally 
formed of wood, the best of them are faced with 
shingles (thin plates of cedar,) neatly painted : 
these are by no means deficient in comfort. For 
the sake of coolness in summer, they are so con- 
structed as to furnish a shaded walk on both sides : 
and when flowers are trained to climb up the pillars, 
the whole has a very pleasing appearance. 

During the hours of mid-day, no work can be 
done in the fields by the white men ; the " hands" 
therefore, return home and doze away the time in 
the out offices, and work early and late in order to 
atone for their meridian slumber. 

The city is preferable as a place of residence 
during the heat of summer. The neat awnings 
that shelter the whole of the side walks prove an 
agreeable protection from the powerful influence 
of the sun's rays, when it is necessary to go from 
the doors. During the hottest part of the day 
little is done by the gentlemen, besides loitering 
about, reading the newspapers, and drinking iced 
punch, and other mysterious compounds ; while the 



104 



ladies, reclining on the sofas fan themselves, drink 
lemonade, and doze. Business transactions of all 
kinds occupy the early hours of the morning ; then 
the ice carts perambulate the city, and provisions 
for the day are procured. After mid-day the streets 
are deserted ; those who have leisure, retire to doze 
away the hours ; the shopkeeper closes his doors 
and slumbers behind the counter; a solemn stillness 
reigns, and the city seem forsaken and desolate. 

The twilight is of very short duration, and the 
setting sun is succeeded by a greater state of dark- 
ness than with us; but, as a compensation, the 
moonlight appears clearer and much brighter, and 
in winter, it is truly delightful. 

The scorching summer usually terminates with 
September; and is succeeded by a month of the 
most charming weather I ever experienced. This 
is October — the American autumn. Now the 
sun's dreaded rays lay aside a portion of their 
fiery force, the forest trees begin to change the 
hue of their leaves, and, instead of green, nature's 
universal livery, colours of all shades gradually 
appear, from the dark purple to the lightest yellow. 
The immense variety of trees accounts for the 



105 



many coloured foliage, and if variety be charm- 
ing, it is here beheld in perfection — not merely 
the sombre tints seen at the same season in an 
English coppice — but purple, red, brown, and 
every colour that can be produced on the palette 
of the artist. 

This is likewise the season for abundance. 
Apples, the finest in the world, peaches, melons, 
and fruit of every kind that grace the orchard, are 
produced in such profusion, that even in the city 
they are sold for very little more than the expense 
of their carriage. Maze, which is here cultivated 
with singular care and judgement, is now seen in 
every direction, waving its purple tassels in the 
breeze ; and imparting a peculiar character to the 
landscape scenery. 

The iron reign of winter usually commences 
about the middle of November. From that time 
till the last days of April the weather is excessively 
cold, but the atmosphere it must be allowed, is 
delightfully clear and pleasant to the eye. Were it 
a matter of choice, and were I doomed to live in 
America, I should certainly prefer a perpetual 
winter, cold as it is, to the broiling summer and 



106 



it extreme variations, with their dreaded conse- 
quences. 

The lowest point of the thermometer this winter 
was three degrees below zero. This was in January, 
but for several days it was below ten degrees, and 
for weeks, it seldom rose higher than eighteen. 
Although the cold in winter is very severe, still 
very little rain falls ; or I should rather say, rain 
seldom falls ; but hail, sleet, and snow comes 
plentifully in storms of considerable duration. In 
the absence of these the air is cold indeed, but 
delightfully pure and translucent. 

The changes of the thermometer in winter are 
neither so sudden nor so rapid as in summer, but 
the winds are as fickle then, as during any period 
of the year. Those from the north and the west are 
equally cold, and the north-west wind is dreaded in 
winter more than any other. Frequently the wind 
will suddenly veer from a particular point of the 
compass to the one diametrically opposite. I never 
knew this to take place in England. 

According to what I have advanced, the greatest 
heat during this year was 105°, and the greatest 
cold 3° below zero; the extreme variation therefore, 



107 



will be 108°. Hence it appears, that during the 
summer, New York, which is situated about 40° of 
latitude, endures the heat of Egypt or Arabia, and, 
in winter, the cold of Stockholm or Petersburg, 
Nor is this all, for in no part of the old world, are 
the diurnal vicissitudes of the atmosphere either so 
sudden or in such extremes. Petersburg is cold in 
winter and cool in summer : Egypt is never abso- 
lutely cold — but the climate of the eastern shores of 
North America is ever variable, and alone uniform 
in unwholesomeness. 

The miasma produced by the heat of the sun, 
from the vegetable matter deposited in the number- 
less marshes, that every where abound in an unclear- 
ed country, is another fruitful source of disease. 
Then there are sicknesses arising from local causes. 
With a climate marked by such extremes of tempe- 
rature, and vicissitudes so sudden, combined with 
the pestilential effluvia arising from vegetable 
decomposition, there can be no wonder if America is 
one of the most unhealthy places in the world. 

Had I been in possession of these facts before I 
crossed the Atlantic, I should no doubt have con- 
cluded as I am now compelled to do, by dear- 



108 



bought experience ; but no work that I could meet 
with was sufficiently explicit on this point ; all the 
information I could collect was delivered in terms 
too vague and indefinite to arrest the attention. 

Many persons from Europe have visited the 
United States, for the prudential purpose of making 
an experiment, prior to their removal thither to 
spend the remainder of their days. They have, 
perhaps, landed just in the most healthy season of 
the year, and their attention being wholly engrossed 
by pecuniary matters, they entirely overlooked 
the subject of health. Attracted by novelty and 
charmed with the prospect, they have sent for their 
families and enrolled themselves as citizens ; but a 
year's experience, attended with a few fits of sick- 
ness, dispels the delusion, and convinces them, that 
the same country that appears so pleasant to the eye 
of a visiter, may present a different aspect when 
adopted for a permanent residence. 

It is not my intention to dwell long in detailing 
the afflictions of my own family from ill health, but 
I cannot, with justice to my readers, omit all notice 
of this circumstance. We suffered the most in the 
country with the bilious fever, and the distressing 



109 



attacks of the chills ; but I am thankful to say, none 
of us sunk under these visitations. With the excep- 
tion of one little girl, myself and my family consist- 
ing of five individuals, besides three servants, were 
all at the same time confined to our beds. Many 
of our neighbours were in the same condition as 
ourselves, and I fear some were far worse. No relief 
could, therefore, be expected from that quarter. 
Our medical attendant was himself at the point of 
death, and the attention of others was wholly 
engrossed by their own connections. 

So general was the epidemic, that no doubt, 
numbers were lost for want of proper attention, and 
those few who were well, and from motives of com- 
misseration or curiosity, were induced to pay us a 
short visit, entertained us with the peculiar distresses 
of a long list of the dying and the dead. I hourly 
expected some of us would bid adieu to this world, 
and then the most I could hope for, was a silent 
interment in unconsecrated ground, with no other 
requiem than the ocean's deep moan as it laved the 
neighbouring shore, or the sighing of the breezes on 
the trees of the forest. 

Providence, however, did not forsake us. One 



110 



evening, a person chanced to call who knew my 
husband, and at his own suggestion, took our horse 
and wagon and went in quest of assistance. Con- 
trary to our expectations, his exertions were crowned 
with success. He returned with a clever active 
American woman, to whom we were under great 
obligations, for she acted both as physician and 
nurse, and soon made us all as comfortable as 
circumstances would permit. From that day we 
began to recover, though it was months before the 
dreaded disorder entirely forsook us. 

In contemplating the manners, customs, and 
affairs of this singular people, I am constrained to 
admit that there is much to admire, and many things 
worthy of commendation. Among these, the general 
character and circumstances of the great mass of 
the people stand prominently forth. In consequence 
of the high price of labour of every kind, and the 
comparative ease with which the essentials of life 
may be obtained, the very lowest of the people are 
well clad, and take a laudable pride in appearing 
clean and smart after the toil of the day is over. 
The theatre is the grand point of attraction for num- 
bers; others assemble in reading rooms, or attend 



Ill 



lectures, or religious meetings; taverns and spirit 
stores have their share of frequenters ; while some 
few congregate to read and hear read the wisdom 
of Thomas Paine, and his coadjutors in the cause of 
infidelity. But, in justice it must be admitted, that 
very few prostrate their time to this latter purpose. 

None of those ostensible instances of deep moral 
degradation, the wretched offspring of infamy and 
want, that force themselves, as it were, upon our 
notice in our densely populated cities, are to be met 
with here. Nor did I ever notice any of those 
extreme cases of abject destitution — so painful to 
contemplate, but still so numerous with us. In fact, 
during the whole period of my residence in the 
United States, I never saw the face of a single 
beggar. 

There are no poor's rates, and the few whom 
misfortune has rendered proper objects for elee- 
mosynary aid, find refuge in alms-houses supported 
by voluntary contributions. 

The universal diffusion of knowledge is another 
pleasing object of contemplation. Public schools 
are numerous and well supported ; and as almost 
the whole population to a man, are ardently engaged 

k2 



112 



in the promotion or pursuit of political schemes, of 
one kind or another, it would be a remarkable 
circumstance were their children incapable of read- 
ing the newspapers. 

Another grand stimulant to exertion in educa- 
tional matters, is to be found in the acquisitive dis- 
position of the people, and their love of commercial 
enterprise. Stripling tradesmen are here to be met 
with in numbers, pushing their various undertakings 
with all the ardour and recklessness of youth, 
seconded by an hereditary thirst for gain. Hence, 
from one cause or another, I conceive it would be 
a very difficult matter to find in any part of the 
Union, a native-born x\merican arrived at years of 
maturity, incapable of writing and keeping his 
accounts. 

It were much to be wished that the planters in 
the south, and other slave-owners, would bestow 
some little care upon the instruction of those unfor- 
tunate beings, that the chances of power have con- 
signed to their charge. Yet so far are they from 
encouraging even the commonest kind of instruction, 
that were the "schoolmaster abroad" here, he would 
be saluted with one clamourous war-whoop, through- 



113 



out the whole of the slave states of this land of 
liberty. The legislators of Virginia in particular, 
have immortalized their humanity, by making it 
penal for any one to teach a negro to read, or to be 
found aiding, encouraging, or abetting in such an 
intellectual abomination ! 

Yet let me not be understood as speaking of the 
literature of the United States, in terms of unquali- 
fied praise. All their literary characters, who are 
considered clever by us, have reaped their laurels 
on British ground. As for the rest I can say very 
little. A few novels, written in the angels and 
despair style of Charlotte Smith, and two or three 
volumes of poetry were all that I ever saw. They 
are good things in their way — that is, good as 
opiates. I remember once to have been so scolded 
for speaking disrespectfully of one of their poets, 
that if I may be forgiven for the past I will do so no 
more. 

But to resume the subject seriously, I think I 
am safe in asserting that there is no literature in the 
United States — or at least very little of sterling 
merit; whatever may be the pretensions of some. 
For surely the " things of a day" poured from the 

k3 



114 



periodical press, in the form of newspapers and 
magazines cannot with propriety be called a nation's 
literature. 

And here let me observe, that the newspaper 
press of England is as far superior to that of the 
United States, as Scott's historical novels are to the 
romances of the last century. It is also worthy of 
remark, that the American press is as far below the 
intellectual standard of their people, as the London 
press is above that of ours. Intelligence like money, 
with them is more equally distributed. The mer- 
chant and his clerk are generally on a par with 
respect to mental culture, while the porter in the 
warehouse is very few removes below either. On 
the other hand, profound scholars and men of great 
opulence are equally rare ; and the nation may be 
said to be alike free from the influence of great 
capitalists and extreme destitution. 

There is something pleasingly simple and patri- 
archal in the management of their rural affairs. 
The ploughing with oxen, and the use of these 
animals in treading out corn, forcibly reminds us 
of the scenes and usages in scripture history. The 
alacrity with which the natives combine to assist a 



115 



widow, a poor neighbour, or a stranger, deserves 
to be recorded in terms of the highest commen- 
dation. 

As an illustration of the above remark, — suppose 
a farmer, from some one of the many causes of 
affliction to which all are liable, becomes incapable 
of cultivating his land. His neighbours repair to 
his house by appointment, with their oxen and im- 
plements; turn into his fields, and plough, sow, 
and harrow every acre on his farm that requires 
these operations. At the conclusion of their labours, 
they refresh themselves, if their friend be able to 
make suitable provision for such a number; if not, 
they return contentedly home, satisfied with the 
consciousness of having performed a meritorious 
action. 

If their united assistance be required in harvest- 
ing the crop, it is cheerfully given; and he who 
ill-naturedly withholds his aid, subjects himself to 
the eternal ban of the whole community. On one 
occasion of this nature, I saw nineteen ploughs at 
work in one field. Nothing displays the American 
character in so benevolent a point of view, as this 
unity of co-operation in cheerfully assisting those, 



116 



whom misfortune has deprived of the power of 
assisting themselves. 

That equivocal species of blessing, cheap law, 
is another of those peculiarities that forcibly arrests 
the attention of strangers. The lawyers are here a 
host, surpassing in number the military, naval, and 
police forces united. They comprise men of all 
shades of talent and character, from the very 
highest to, alas, the very, very lowest. Doubtless, 
as with us, they look upon their clients as tradesmen 
do upon their customers, as a source of profit and 
honourable competition. But in a nation of obsti- 
nate sticklers for trifles, where almost every tenth 
man is a lawyer, and where a cause may be tried 
for ten dollars, there is reason to fear that sharpness 
is sometimes thrust a little beyond the verge of 
honesty by some, despite the profession being gilded 
with the flattering distinction of honourable. 

But the practitioners are not entirely to be 
blamed — the principle is objectionable. Should 
any desire to witness the developement of the cheap 
law system, in all the glories of its confusion, 
he may behold it here. Suits at law are perpe- 
tually throwing the peace of even rural society 



117 



into convulsions. Causes are tried and re-tried, 
till the expences stop the current of litigation, 
which a wholesome view, at the onset, of heavy 
costs in perspective, would have prevented from 
flowing. 

Many of the small country justices or "squires" 
as they are here called, are elected to the office, 
without any regard to their legal knowledge or in- 
tellectual capabilities. The voice of party frequently 
raises these Daniels to the judgement seat; and as 
they obtain a criminal bonus upon every cause, 
their desire to promote litigation has never been 
called into question. The consequence of all this 
is, that the law, from being placed within the reach 
of every one, is become a powerful promoter of 
discord, and actions are commenced to gratify the 
malevolence of some, or the oppression of others, 
while hatred, malice, and uncharitableness are the 
certain result. 



118 



CHAPTER VI. 



EMIGRATION.— CONCLUSION- 



[Several individuals having expressed their regret 
that the subject of Emigration had not received 
greater attention in the former editions of this little 
work, the writer yields to the general wish, and 
designs this chapter to supply the deficiency. At 
the same time, she feels bound to acknowledge her 
obligations to her husband, for suggestions on those 
subjects that lie beyond the legitimate province of 
her sex.] 

Emigration considered as a measure of state 
policy, has recently employed the thoughts of some 
of the most eminent characters of the age; but I 
design to pass by their speculations, and confine 
myself entirely to the domestic phasis of the ques- 
tion. It is doubtless an important subject, and one 
well calculated to prove a powerful expedient, either 
for good or for evil, as it ever has proved to the 
majority of those who have ventured their temporal 
welfare upon the result. 



119 



Persons frequently take extreme views of emigra- 
tion. Some to whom novelty and adventure has 
charms, have invested this subject with all the 
attractions a sanguine immagination could portray. 
These are dangerous characters as writers, and 
certainly incur a responsibility in exact proportion 
to the circulation of their remarks. Their florid 
views of a sublunary paradise shine only in fancy. 
On the other hand, some who are cased in adaman- 
tine ignorance, or home-cured in paternal smoke, 
receive every remark on this subject with a sneer. 
These regard the whole affair as a malter of trans- 
portation, and would starve on patriotic principles 
rather than forsake the land in which they were 
cradled, either for their own benefit, or for that of 
any one else. With both these classes I am at 
issue; and leaving those to enjoy their prosperity to 
whom this speculation has proved successful, I 
proceed to notice some of the more prominent causes 
of the failure of those who have been disappointed. 

The first unpropitious speculation of this char- 
acter, that I can recollect, occurred several years 
since, before I knew America, to a host of misguided 
individuals who emigrated purely from political 



120 



motives. They were opposed to a monarchy ; and as 
they had been in perils oft and in prisons oft, for the 
sake of their beloved republican principles, or 
something worse, they flattered themselves that the 
free-born citizens of the new world would receive 
them with fraternal affection, and celebrate their 
landing with songs and rejoicing. In this land of 
promise they expected to luxuriate in undisturbed 
enjoyment, each under his own vine and his own 
fig-tree ; where, safe from the troublesome trammels 
of the law, they might sing "Down with all kings 
and let millions be free." 

Poor creatures ! How great was their disap- 
pointment. Where they hoped for affection they 
were met with aversion, and contempt instead of 
admiration. 

A total indifference to the domestic policy, of 
other countries is one of the characteristics of the 
Americans. They are always too much engaged in 
their own election schemes to notice the opinions of 
foreigners, especially such as profess intemperate 
principles in politics and religion. Such they regard 
not only with caution but even with undisguised 
suspicion, as an indefineable species between the 
infidel and traitor. 



121 



Is it then any wonder that these men were disap- 
pointed ? Those among them who were blessed with 
the means of escaping, made their exit as speedily as 
practicable, while some that remained abused the 
government, committed acts of violence, and closed 
their career in a prison . 

One cause of the failure of these enterprises, 
may be ascribed to the tenacity with which so many 
cling to the business to which they have been 
brought up, and to all the peculiar modes of opera- 
tion to which they have been accustomed. It is 
much to be regretted that too many import so 
large a share of self-confidence, and are so blindly 
prejudiced in favour of whatever is considered the 
standard of perfection in their own country, that 
they cannot allow themselves to reflect, that what 
may be admired in one kingdom, may be viewed 
with indifference by another people. Hence they 
become impatient, when from their pardonable 
ignorance of local peculiarities with regard to their 
respective occupations, they find themselves com- 
pelled to learn where they expected to teach ; and 
many sacrifice their future prospects to the present 
gratification of their splenetic humour. 

L 



122 



Now, in this case, instead of leaving the country 
and abusing the Yankees to the end of their days, 
it would be the wiser plan for all emigrants to 
conciliate the good will of their new neighbours, and 
yield to circumstances which they cannot control, 
rather than create enemies by a fruitless course of 
opposition. 

The Americans, generally speaking, pride them- 
selves upon the versatility of their skill. One plain 
countryman can perform almost every operation in 
the arts of common life, that a pair of hands are 
required to perform : I do not mean that he can 
execute all he attempts in a finished style of excel- 
lence. No; but he can transact in a respectable 
manner, as many different orders of work as we 
should consign to twenty different artificers. This 
arises from the peculiarity of their position. In a 
thinly inhabited country, no one knows what he may 
be compelled to do in passing through life, and 
therefore, every parent wisely prepares his offspring 
for the vicissitudes of fortune by a judicious course 
of manual instruction. Hence the use of the hands 
in the performance of any office not exactly menial, 
is here considered no more derogatory to the dignity 



123 



of the highest character in the Union, than the 
exercise of the intellectual faculties. It is on this 
account, that they are apt to regard a stranger with 
some degree of contempt, who either from pride or 
ignorance, refuses to put his hand to any thing be- 
yond the identical branch of business in which he 
has been regularly instructed. I could adduce some 
striking instances in illustration of this point; but I 
shall content myself by relating two that occurred 
within the sphere of my own knowledge. 

My husband met with one of our countrymen at 
Tappan, in the state of New York, about ten days 
after Christmas. He was a wheelwright, had landed 
eight days since, and could obtain no employment. 
He seemed greatly disappointed and dejected and 
was just upon the eve of returning home. The absur- 
dity of this step was pointed out to him. He was 
informed that he had landed upon a most inauspi- 
cious day — that the Americans make a general 
practice of doing no manner of work, for the three 
weeks following Christmas ; and that, in order to 
give the country a fair trial, he should remain at 
least till the complete expiration of that period. To 
deal fairly with him, it was hinted, that even then, 



124 



possibly, he might not find immediate employment 
in his own peculiar craft, and if so, he was advised 
to apply at the shops of carpenters and builders, 
where abundance of employment might be obtained 
by all who are acquainted with wood work. This 
friendly hint settled the matter at once. Evidently 
he thought it degrading to work as a rough carpen- 
ter, even for a few weeks, and although he was 
offered employment in wood work on the spot, he 
excused himself, observing, that he had seen quite 
enough of the country, and that he would e'en return 
home. 

" Your countrymen are a lazy saucy crew," was 
the evening's salutation of our nearest neighbour, 
an opulent farmer of very industrious habits.— There 
is something so venerable in the appearance of three- 
score and ten, that it was not in our natures to ruffle 
the temper of the patriarch by an acrimonious 
rejoinder. We knew he would recover his proper 
feelings when he had delivered his sentiments, and 
till then it would cost us nothing to wait. He 
took the offered chair and explained himself in 
the following terms, as nearly as I can possibly 
recollect, . y 



125 



"My son and I were carting sand from the beach 
this morning, when up comes two strangers — a true 
born Englishman and a true born Irishman — they 
asked for work. The Englishman said he could do 
any thing, and the Irishman swore he could do every 
thing. We soon agreed ; and I left these men with 
my son to cart sand, while I went up the fields 
to look after the blacks. At dinner time the stran- 
gers came and asked me to set them to better work. 
I said that must be finished first. In short, they 
abused the country, and said they did not come to 
America to cart sand. So I paid them their half 
day's wages, and they are gone. Pray what kind 
of work do farming men do in your country ? Does 
one man hold up the train of his mistress, and 
another water the roses f° 

"Now," continued the narrator, "here are a 
couple of men, one indeed has grown too big for 
his coat, and the coat of the other is too short, but 
they have a pair of hands each like ourselves, and 
yet they are too proud to use them !" 

We assured our ire-fraught friend, that idleness 
is as commonly clothed with rags in Europe as in 
America ; and we consoled his troubled spirit by 

l3 



12G 



predicting, that our countryman with a short coat, 
would find it long enough before he got a new 
one. 

I believe it is generally conceded, that emigrants 
who bring over with them a considerable sum of 
money — say from two to ten thousand pounds, miss 
the road to prosperity much more frequently than 
those that land with comparatively nothing. This 
problem admits of an easy solution. The mode of 
doing business in the United States, partakes so 
strongly of the spirit of adventure, that commerce 
is fairly reduced to a species of gambling specula- 
tion. On landing, the aspiring stranger finds that 
money goes farther here than at home ; hence he 
conceives himself to be a person of greater conse- 
quence. If he have fair letters of introduction, his 
society is courted by men of all shades and grades 
of property and reputation; some of these may 
be men of substance — others so only in appearance. 
Among these last, will be found a plentiful assort- 
ment of adventurers, all ready to conduct him, 
through the medium of some speculation or other, 
to the temple of Plutus. It generally follows, that 
he embarks his property in a variety of adventures, 






127 



some of which may succeed. In this case, he ex- 
tends his sphere of commercial enterprise, and 
thinks it incumbent upon him to enlarge his estab- 
lishment also, and to support his pretensions to 
unbounded wealth by a display of fashionable osten- 
tation. Sooner or later, he perceives that, through 
his ignorance of the thousand things that no foreigner 
is expected to know, he has been floated beyond 
his depth — no opportunity is afforded of retracing 
his steps, and he is at last engulphed in the quick- 
sand of irremediable ruin. 

Even in my limited sphere of observation, I 
met with several individuals who had landed, each 
with thousands at command ; and it is a melancholy 
truth, that not one of these is now above the second 
order of commercial clerks. Truly they enjoyed 
one of the advantages of a republican government, 
for however they might differ with respect to their 
notions of political liberty, their circumstances pre- 
sented a tolerable specimen of equality ; and to 
the honour of the new world's hospitality they freely 
acknowledged, that they had all been strangers and 
were all taken in ! 

I have elsewhere observed, that the inebriate 



128 



must be so thoroughly weaued from his bad prac- 
tices, as to be beyond the reach of temptation, 
before he can reasonably hope to derive any solid 
advantages from residing in a country, where fire- 
waters are cheaper than milk. 

The indolent form another class whom no change 
of country can benefit. The smart quick step, and 
the general alacrity of movement practised by 
operatives of all orders, would grieve the spirit of 
a lazy fellow who is compelled to earn his living by 
manual exertion. He would discover that the high 
price paid for labour, impelled the employer to 
look sharp after his men — then there is the contempt 
of his fellows, and a thousand other things that 
would combine to harrass the quiet mind of this 
poor persecuted man, while against this Pandora's 
box full of evils, he has but one solitary comfort 
as a set-off — the distressing fever and ague which 
carries off its thousands, would find him too lazy 
to shake ! 

Those who possess a moderate share of the com- 
forts of life at home, with a fair prospect of retain- 
ing them, should never think of emigration. They 
have not been sufficiently disciplined in the school 



129 



of adversity, to estimate properly the common com- 
forts of life, and I sincerely advise no one to expect 
any thing beyond this standard. 

Having described the order of persons who ought 
not to emigrate, together with the causes that have 
conspired to blight the prospects of the unfortunate, 
I proceed to notice those to whom emigration may 
be beneficial, and to point out the qualities required 
to ensure succes. 

The thousands and tens of thousands in various 
parts of our own country, who find the greatest diffi- 
culty in obtaining a sufficiency of employment, and 
are reduced to the necessity of disposing of their 
time and labour for a mere shadow of remuneration, 
though they are the very persons that would reap the 
greatest advantage from emigration, yet the want of 
the means, sorrowful thought ! is with them an insur- 
mountable obstacle. There is however hope for the 
class immediately above them. The small but in- 
dustrious tradesman, the artificer, and a numerous 
order of persons, who are not exactly so poor as to 
be absolutely incapable of raising the means for 
removing, and yet from competition, and various 
other causes, are kept in a perpetual state of 



130 



thraldom through fear of poverty. These and all 
others who are extremely anxious to bring up their 
families in credit and respect, and yet in spite of 
the most strenuous exertions, united to privations 
the most humiliating, find themselves incapable of 
accomplishing their wishes. Such may peruse 
this chapter with interest — let them do so with 
circumspection. 

From all I can learn, there is no country under 
heaven where manual labour, attention, and personal 
exertion of every kind, meet with a richer and 
more certain reward than in the United States. 

I have had the advantage of becoming acquain- 
ted with the experience of great numbers : some 
who have won their way to affluence, and others to 
the enjoyment of comparative independence, and, 
however they may differ in particulars, one general 
line of conduct seems to have been pursued by them 
all. They were steady, frugal, and industrious ; and 
when subordinates, they never relinquished one post 
till they had secured a better. 

It is a debated point, whether married pairs with 
families, or young people are most eligible for emi- 
gration. Doubtless the experiment may be made 



131 



by the latter with far less risk of personal comfort or 
pecuniary sacrifice, in the event of disappointment. 
But still the numerous facilities that a new country 
affords, for the bringing up of children, for their useful 
employment as they grow up, and the unbounded 
field for exertion, and easy means of support that 
lies open for all when arrived at mature years, inclines 
me to pronounce the chance of success in favour of the 
former — provided the parents be not too far advanced 
in life; for elderly people do not transplant well. 

The amount of property necessary to start with, 
depends greatly upon the line of life the party is 
desirous of following. It is of little consequence 
what a young man takes over for he is almost sure to 
lose it; and it were better to leave him to become 
the architect of his own fortunes; but a few scores 
or hundreds might probably be well disposed of in 
securing many advantages for a married man. To 
these and all others who bring over property, I 
would repeat the advice which I heard the British 
consul once deliver on a similar occasion. Pass one 

ENTIRE YEAR IN THE COUNTRY BEFORE YOU PART 
WITH A SINGLE DOLLAR IN ANY IMPORTANT INVEST- 
MENT. This sentence deserves to be written in 



132 



letters of gold, as those can tell who have pursued 
an opposite course. 

But it may be asked, What would you have a 
man do who has only a few scores or hundreds — it 
may perhaps be spent before he has attained the 
knowledge required to dispose of it profitably ? 
To such a one I would say — take good care of your 
money. For the sake of your own peace and the 
preservation of your property, give no one reason 
to suppose you possess any thing worth having. 
Seek employment as soon as you land, and if you 
cannot obtain exactly what you wish, take for the 
present, what you can get. While you remain in 
your first place, which it is presumed, will be in 
the city, you will have an opportunity of gaining 
for nothing, information, the value of which you 
can form no adequate idea. It is possible that 
at first you may obtain a place that you consider 
degrading ; but be assured nothing is thought dis- 
honourable in America but what is immoral or 
useless ; and an undesirable post is easily relin- 
quished when you have secured a better. 

If you are desirous of locating yourself on a 
farm, it will be best first to hire yourself to a farmer. 



133 



Here you will acquire information respecting the 
value of land, which is more fluctuating than any 
other description of property. 

It is generally admitted that the intelligence 
which is procured on the spot is the most accurate ; 
for the value of every species of property is 
subject to variations so sudden, and in such ex- 
tremes, that a list of particulars deserves no 
dependence. 

Still, amid all these changes, the prices paid for 
labour and provisions remain pretty steady. Of 
these, the following list expressed in English money, 
will give a correct idea. It is drawn up with due 
consideration, and the prices quoted, may be safely 
relied upon as being fair averages. 

Common Labourers 4s. ^ day. 

Mechanics, Shoemakers, and Tailors 5s. to 6s. „ 

* Farming Men Servants £1 15s. to £2. $• month. 

* „ Boys £1 4s. to £1 8s. „ 

* Waiters in Shops and Clerks ... £40 to £70 $• year. 

* These last board and lodge in the house. 

PROVISIONS. 

Beef, Mutton, Veal, and Pork 2^d. to 3d. $- lb. 

Fine Wheat Flour Is. 4d. to Is. 6d. for 14 lbs. 

Tea ... 3s. to 5s. $• lb.— Sugar ... 3|d. to 5d. $• lb. 

M 



134 



The price of clothing, hardware, and a variety 
of other matters, depends greatly upon the judge- 
ment of the purchaser, and his acquaintance with the 
random mode of doing business practised throughout 
the country. Sometimes these may be obtained 
very cheap — sometimes they are very dear. English 
gold and silver coin bear a premium of about 
twenty per cent. — but let the stranger be careful 
ivhat description of paper he receives in ex- 
change. 

Steam and sailing vessels, fitted up for passen- 
gers, admit of two, and sometimes of three orders 
of accommodation. The cabin is fitted up in a 
splendid style for gentlemen and ladies ; provisions 
of all kinds are supplied at about thirty guineas 
each. A very comfortable berth may be obtained 
in the midships of some vessels, for five or six pounds. 
The steerage is the lowest ; here a passage may be 
obtained for from four pounds, to — I know not what 
sum downwards — perhaps thirty shillings. In these 
two last departments, passengers are required to 
furnish themselves with provisions for six weeks. 
Persons of circumscribed means are advised to 
make enquiries of disinterested individuals on the 



135 



spot, and not pay for their passage till the vessel 
is just on the eve of sailing. 

Caution — caution — caution is required by the 
emigrant at every step : from the contsact for his 
passage to his final settlement in his adopted 
country, this quality cannot be dispensed with. 

Unfortunately the climate of the United States, 
was found to be so very prejudicial to the health of 
my husband and family, that we were compelled to 
relinquish all thoughts of remaining ; and as we 
had given the land of liberty two year's trial, and 
had suffered nearly two year's affliction, we decided 
upon leaving those to share its blessings, whose con- 
stitutions were better adapted to enjoy them. But 
it would be unjust to conclude, that because we 
were unsuccessful, others will be so also. Want of 
health was our calamity. In this case, I can give 
no opinion with respect to others; — here individual 
experience can alone decide. 

Let those who contemplate crossing the Atlantic 
carefully weigh the contents of these pages ; they 
were penned for the purpose of imparting useful 
information, whose foundation is truth. The writer 
has no party spirit to gratify ; no interest to serve ; 



136 



,**»*>. 






and she will be as happy to find that she has 
been the means of obstructing an unfortunate spec- 
ulation, as that she has promoted a happy one. 

* •* * 

I cannot conclude without paying a tribute of 
respect to the exalted character of the American 
ladies. They certainly take precedence of the 
other sex, both in moral excellence and intellectual 
refinement ; and in a religious point of view, they 
furnish a noble instance of consistency, in preserving 
themselves uncontaminated amid the acquisitive 
propensities, and unamiable manners of their 
sovereign lords. 

Were it not for the climate, I could have spent 
my days there with a fair proportion of comfort, for 
I met with much kindness. I cherish no feelings 
of animosity against the Americans, though I have 
given my opinion freely on their affairs : to this they 
can have no reasonable objection ; for as they allow 
freedom of speech amongst themselves, they cannot 
consistently deny the same to a foreigner. 



D. I. ROEBUCK, PRINTER, GRACE STREET, LEEDS. 



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